Bill:
Pins 11(White/Red) and 12(White/orange) which have to be made in order to
turn the starter are the only real need to keep the starter working
The easiest resolution to your problem sounds like extracting the Ground
socket(Pin 9) from the plug but I am sure you knew this. Or simply unpluging
the unit and fabricating a jumper of an inch or two with some Molex
connector pins between Pins 11(White/Red) and 12(White/orange) would be
suffice. On mine I chose to bridge pins 11 & 12 on the PC board(within the
interlock/Buzzer unit) with solder, I didn't have a leak to ground as you
do, but had a starting fault that was cured reliably and permanently and I
was able to maintain the door and key buzzer plus have have a place to stow
the plug in it' original position without hanging or tying it up
Bottom line is it is relatively easy to modify the PC Board to achieve your
preference and keep it looking functional. the chose is yours of course
hope to see you there at Jekyll Island here at the end of the month.
Brooks
76 Spit
74 & 76 Six
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Williams, Bill
(Atlanta)
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 2:37 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Seatbelt Interlock
Guys,
My '74 TR6 has been drawing a small current with the ignition off. With
an amp meter, I've found part of the draw coming from the seatbelt
interlock module.
The PO had bypassed it in some fashion, but I'm not sure he did it
correctly.
If someone has the correct procedure for the bypass, please let me know.
Thanks,
Bill
Atlanta
74 TR6
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