Thanks for the info Dick. I'll see about making one of those wooden gages.
It may be that there are 16 TPI on the rods, but that's not what I was
talking about. If you recall, I started out with 1/4" toe-out. Four turns on
the tie rod brought the toe to zero. That's where I got the 1/16" per turn.
I confirmed this when I went two turns the other way to go from 3/16" to
1/16" toe-in. Note I was working with one rod only for a while because the
steering wheel wasn't centered and was trying to get it right.
- Hugh
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Hiddlestone [mailto:LUNASTONE@webtv.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 4:38 PM
> To: Hugh Fader
> Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: TR6 toe-in
>
>
> Hugh---You can count the threads per inch on the tie rod to give an
> approximate on the amount the wheel will move, as the adjustment is
> screwed in or out. (A chalk mark helps here) However, if you move the
> adjustment rod one full turn, and if it's 1/16", this is a LOT of
> change. Note that each wheel pivots from a center, and
> changing each one
> by a sixteenth should give a total alignment change of a quarter inch
> front to back on that pair of wheels.
>
> A handy gauge can be made up from three pieces of 2"x2" wood.
> Two pieces
> about a foot long attached to a 'handle' about five feet long. It will
> resemble the capital letter "F" when glued and screwed
> together. Without
> getting into full chassis alignment here, the amount of toe
> is relative
> on each end of the car. Using a pocket scale, or something
> that measures
> to 1/32", one can measure the difference between the front and back of
> the tires at the wheel centerline, as the "gauge" is moved
> from back to
> front on a pair. Being careful to not pick up a bump in the sidewall,
> and assuming a reasonably straight pair of wheels, it's
> possible to get
> very close to what you want the toe to be.
> This is handy if you autocross the car, and want to return to a street
> setting without the time and expense of a professional
> alignment. I can
> say that my tires wear straight doing it this way. It also works well
> for the rears, when starting from a known true chassis alignment.
> String and jack stands works well here, but that's another story.
>
> Dick
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