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TR3 Clutch Fluid Leak?

To: "INTERNET:RayAntoky@aol.com" <RayAntoky@aol.com>
Subject: TR3 Clutch Fluid Leak?
From: Dave Massey <105671.471@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 10:47:04 -0400
Cc: "[unknown]" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message text written by INTERNET:RayAntoky@aol.com
>Drove the car into the garage Friday afternoon. This morning I had no 
pressure at the clutch pedal. Noticed I was down some fluid in the 
brake/clutch reservoir. Topped it up, of course not expecting a cure, and
it 
was not. What is the next step. To find the leak? Then what?
<

Fix it!

(sorry)

Um, seriously, there are three parts to the hydraulics on a clutch: Master
cylinder, slave cylinder and the interconnecting lines.  The lines are the
easiest to check.  Just do a visual inspection for leaks.  The hard line
may leak if it rusts through and the flex line can leak from age.  If these
all look good then move on tp the cylinders.

If the master cylinder is leaking then there will be fluid on the clutch
pedal arm or on the inside of the firewall.  Also check the pushrod (where
it will actually come out).  

The slave cylinder is the same.  If the seals are bad fluid will come out
where the rod comes out.  Pull back the dust boot and look for brake fluid.

If one (or both) of the cylinders is leaking it could be from just bad
seals (cups) or it could be from rust pitting in the cylinder.  Here are
your choices (in decending order of expense): 1) you can buy new, 2) you
can send them off to Whitepost or one of the other rebuilders and have them
professionally rebuilt - they can press in a brass or stainless sleeve into
badly pitted bores making for a more moisture tolerant final product, or 3)
rebuild them yourself.

If the bore is clean you can put in new rubber for a fraction of the cost
of new or rebuilt,  If the pitting is minor, you can buy/borrow a hone and
hone the cylinders to remove the pitting.

None of this is rocket science.  The only catchword is "clean."  Clean
everything before reassembly.

Good luck

Dave

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