> List,
> My 1976 TR-6 has Zenith Stromberg 175-CD2 carbs that I am
> certain are
> running rich.
Have you checked the float level ? Diaphragms ? I believe by 1976 the
carbs were designed (by US law) to have a very limited range of mixture
adjustment, which did not include as rich as you describe. Thus it seems
likely there is some other problem ...
> I have an adjustment tool that may or may not be the
> proper tool. It is composed of a cylinder that goes into the
> dashpot with a
> hex wrench through the cylinder.
That certainly sounds like the right tool. BTW the reason you have to "hold
things in place" is to avoid tearing the diaphragm ...
> An additional question, if I may. I took the opportunity to raise the
> cylinders in the carbs and both operate smoothly but there is
> noticeably more
> resistance on one than on the other. I use the same oil in the dashpot
> (Black 3-in-1 oil) but I may have used a different viscosity at
> some time in
> one. My first guess is that there is a difference in the oil and I would
> like to know what suggestions you could make for draining the oil and
> replacing it with the same oil.
The MityVac brake bleeding kit would probably work well. Being a cheap
sort, and having all the bits at hand, I made a suitable suction 'cleaner'
from one of those vacuum pumps that HF sells for $8, a Mason jar, and some
lengths of tubing. Works a treat, although I wish I'd used something a bit
less breakable.
Another solution for a 'one shot' deal would be to simply undo the screws,
lift the chamber off, and upend it to pour out the oil. Be a good time to
check those diaphragms ...
Randall Young
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (currently sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver (Real Soon Now)
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