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Re: [RE: 500 mile maintenance] teamfat2.dsl.aros.net id g4TBiZu23778

To: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>, "'triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [RE: 500 mile maintenance] teamfat2.dsl.aros.net id g4TBiZu23778
From: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:44:26 -0400
"Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com> wrote:

> Hugh, IMO you should be adjusting the valves anyway, and first retorquing
> the head is cheap insurance.  It probably isn't absolutely necessary, but
> it's sure a lot easier than replacing a head gasket (not to mention
possible

Knew I forgot something. Yup, I'll adjust the valve lash too. Now, to
re-torque, do I back the nut off and then re-torque or do I just tighten?
Also, does the order matter? I wouldn't think so since they're already tight.


> Personally, I would get it running the way I wanted first, and only then
> start making changes like advancing timing.  In fact, I might skip the
whole
> advancing the timing exercise, since it will probably not help (assuming
> your engine is otherwise stock), and may well hurt (knock is not always
> audible).  Note that best power/fuel mileage is not necessarily obtained
> just before knock, either.

You're absolutely correct about the spark timing. We do a test where I work
called a spark sweep. If you advance spark holding everything else constant,
the torque curve peaks, then flattens out, then falls off. Hopefully, knock
occurs after it falls off. The best place to operate is just where the torque
curve peaks and before it flattens out. This is called MBT -- minimum spark
for best torque. Need a dyno to determine this point though. 

- Hugh

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