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RE: 3A brake light switch install

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: 3A brake light switch install
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 17:29:12 -0700
> I've had a bad stop light switch in place for awhile and had installed an
> aftermarket switch which has worked well for quite some time. I recently
> ordered and received an original today and want to replace the aftermarket
> one. What surprises might I encounter while doing this? I'm assuming fluid
> will shoot out of the 5-way connection and I'll need to replace
> lost fluid and
> then bleed the brakes. I've never seen any instruction on replacement.
> Anything else might happen?

Dave :

The fluid shouldn't shoot out, rather it will dribble for as long as you
have the switch out, or until the reservoir is dry.  You can short-circuit
this process some, by finding a way to hold the brake pedal down a bit, just
short of the point where you first start to feel resistance.  I have a cheap
36" 'F' clamp from HF that I've turned the ends around on, just for things
like this.  With the pedal depressed, you might get a small spurt, but it
won't dribble nearly as much.

If you're using DOT 3/4, you might want to take precautions to keep as much
of it as possible off of the frame.  It will eat paint.

Although the sender uses tapered pipe threads, it's probably best not to use
any form of sealant on them.  You definitely do not want it to contaminate
the brake fluid.

Otherwise, the job is pretty straightforward.  I've done it several times,
and usually I didn't have to bleed the brakes afterward.  The tiny bit of
sponginess went away with a day's use.  Eventually I got tired of replacing
that switch, so I now use an aftermarket switch mounted into the pedal box,
ala TR4.

Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO (sidelined for OD gearbox install)
63 Sports 6 rustoration project HB7826LCV
71 Stag daily driver Real Soon Now LE1473L

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