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RE: TR3A...weak horn syndrome

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: TR3A...weak horn syndrome
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 09:54:12 -0700
> While we are picking the nits out of our cars for our summer
> enjoyment(?), I
> noticed my horns have a severe case of anemia. The battery is
> strong, lights
> ok and everything else. But the horns are weak. Any suggestions
> where to look
> for the trouble? They are the originals. Could it be just a
> ground problem
> somewhere?
> Is there a relay? Any and all suggestions, however inane, will be
> appreciated.

Ray, the TR2/3 did not originally have a horn relay, but IMO it's a
worthwhile addition.  The horns get their power directly from the fuse block
(this wire is hot all the time), and the horn button grounds the other lead
to sound the horns.

I would start by removing one of the horns and disassembling it.  There is a
small pushrod between the points and the diaphragm that frequently collects
crud and corrosion.  If it binds in the hole, the horns may sound weak or
not work at all.  Also clean the points while it's apart.  After
reassembling the pushrod and points, adjust the points following the
procedure in the book (or you can just listen for the best sound).

If that doesn't improve things noticeably, then start looking at the
electrical side.  Check the voltage directly across the horn connections
(under the cover) while sounding the horns, it should be at least 10-11
volts.  The contacts in the control head seem to be a common problem for me
(before I added a relay anyway).  Also, the stator tube forms the return
path, so if it was corroded where it fits inside the control head tube, or
where the gland at the steering box clamps onto it, that might also be a
problem.

I wonder if JZ Witless still sells the manifold vacuum operated "wolf
whistles" <g>

Randall

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