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RE: floats

To: "'Davgil@aol.com'" <Davgil@aol.com>, rgreene@whoi.edu
Subject: RE: floats
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@pixelsystems.com>
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 14:02:31 -0400
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
I thought most fuel floats were shells made from two copper or brass cups
soldered together. Couldn't an old one from another carb be refitted, or is
that heresy? They certainly are easier to fix.

Mark Hooper

-----Original Message-----
From: Davgil@aol.com [mailto:Davgil@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 1:44 PM
To: rgreene@whoi.edu
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: floats


Robert,
I had the same problem with the float in my 1976 TR6.  I tried Randall's 
suggested method, using the fuel proof model airplane dope.  Almost the
exact 
procedure he described.  This worked for me for about a year and then I had
a 
repeat of the original problem.  The Hot Fuel Proof Dope that I used didn't 
seem to work for this application when fully immersed in fuel over time.  I 
went to my local automobile dealer (a personal friend) and asked that they 
dig through their old parts and get me any type of fuel sender float that 
they would otherwise discard.  He gave me a float that appeared to be a foam

block of some type.  It took about 15 minutes to re-bend the wire that 
encircled the float to one that would work with this material.  That was two

years ago and it has worked like a charm ever since.  I guess that you may 
say that it is not concours, but it would be a really tough judge that would

ever inspect a fuel sending unit float.  YMMV.
Best of luck
David Gill
1976 TR6

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