One of the first things that happens to any LBC I get my hands
on is swap out to Halogen headlamps.
I've never had a power problem...any way shape or form.
The Halogen bulbs at worst, draw 1/4-1/2amp more than the stock lights.
The extra brightness comes from the reaction of the heated filament
within the gaseous atmosphere in which it's burning.
This too is the simple 'step-up' principal behind the 'bright white'
named lights that are simple xenon gas rather than halogen.
These (in my experience) are almost the same current as the halogens
and are the same step-up from Halogens that the Halogens are from stock.
The 35/55 55/65 80/100 ...whatever... readings are the electrical specs
not light output. These numbers are the current they draw through
your vehicle wiring.
So by spec a 55watt highbeam (being feed by a good clean electrical
wiring system( running off of say...13.5 volts
55W / 13.5V = 4.07 amps of current
80w / 13.5 = 5.9 amps. etc etc
This isn't much. Consider , (yes, it's a limited duty cycle)
but your ignition coil usually runs around 4 amps as well
(12Volts/3 ohms=4amps)
As for safety.... yes, relays are a good idea. Lower power through
all the old contacts, means lower losses from resistance's.
And don't forget the old chaffing wires under all the wiring harness
tie-downs and other places they rub.
A lower powered line and fuse are a lot less likely to melt the harness
if shorted out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Vance" <biggooner@hotmail.com>
To: <rjm527@cablespeed.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 headlight replacement
Dick,
I've been running on sealed halogen units from LBC Co. this season -
difference is staggering and there was no need to add relays or the like.
John Vance
West Chester, Pennsylvania
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
|