Message text written by "Pat Bishop"
>Beginning at the beginning, no matter what the load or RPM, the alternator
>light never goes out but does eventually get to a dimly lit stage after
>moderate driving. On the advice of my mechanic (a highly reputable one,
by
>the way) I replaced the alternator with a rebuilt Lucas unit. After
changing
>out the alternator, the problem persisted in much the same way as before.
>Yesterday, I took the alternator back to the British parts specialist who
sold
>it to me where he bench tested it and claimed that it's working properly,
>putting out 13.7 volts at 4,000 RPM.
Pat, I would expect an alternator output to be closer to 14.5 volts.
Especially at 4,000 RPM. Especially at no load. This sounds fishy.
<snip> Long story short; I
>have 12.2V at the battery, 12.2V at the sensing wire, 12.2V at the battery
>terminals while the engine is running (no matter what RPM or load) and
12.2V
>at the large brown wire at the Alternator (again, neither RPM or load
seems to
>have any impact on output). <snip>
<
This sounds like the alternator is not functioning. Question: when you
measured these voltages where did you hold the meter negative lead? If it
was on the battery take another set with the voltmeter lead on the engine
block. When troubleshooting electrical problems never assume anything.
Another thing to check for is that some alternators do not have an internal
connection from the negative output to the alternator frame and an ground
wire may be required. (I ran across this somewhere but I forgot where)
Although it is unlikely to get a replacement alternator with the same fault
as the original, it is still a possibility, but logic (which can be flawed
as well) says look elsewhere.
Good luck.
Dave
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
|