And Most important of all be sure you have a "Pilot Shaft" that will
allow you to install the Clutch perfectly centered so the
Transmission will then easily slip back into place.
>Hi Brice
>I don't know which is the correct size for the TR6, I have a sedan which is
>the same engine /Basic box, I believe the input shaft dia differs between
>the two, also I believe the TR6 Box comes out upwards through the car as the
>chassis prevents removal downwards, the sedan comes out downwards as the
>tunnel for the box is fixed in. Once you have the tunnel cover removed from
>your car it should be easy to get the bolts over the top, unlike the sedan
>where you have to lower the back of the box slightly then feed about 2 1/2
>feet of extensions up through the gear stick hole to reach the top nuts,
>there are other methods but I have found that way is quickest! Yes get the
>release bearing, it is probably that making all the noise, and no it is not
>worth changing only that, whilst you are doing the hard labour, I would say
>change it all, including the taper bolt that holds the release bearing fork
>to the cross shaft, others on the list have gone even further and added a
>roll pin through the assembly to increase the strength. I would also fit new
>bearings for the cross shaft, I generally fit the new ones in addition to
>the old ones though it would be better to get four new ones and remove the
>old ones completely. The quiet whirring noise is quite common and perfectly
>acceptable, you could possibly remedy that with a gearbox rebuild but it
>often remains to some extent, so I wouldn't bother unless you feel a touch
>of shipwrights coming on! Whilst you are under the car it would be worth
>pulling the boot on the slave cylinder and seeing if it is wet inside, if it
>is wet rather than just having a light film of fluid on the bore, you may as
>well do the seal on the slave cyl, or have I got shipwrights now!
>
>Graham.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bryce Milton" <Bryce@Milton.com>
>To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
>Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 1:54 AM
>Subject: Re: TR6 Clutch job
>
>
>> Thanks for the reply. When I went to the local parts store, they had
>> two clutch kits available, an AC Delco 6" and 7" both for $152 and Moss is
>> showing just one type from either Borg&Beck or LUK. Would I also need a
>> release bearing ($45)? What all do I need and where's the best source? I
>> only hear noise when the clutch is depressed (gear selected or not), but
>it
>> engages firmly without obvious slippage when the clutch is out. A quiet
>> whirring can also be heard when the car is neutral and the clutch is out
>> with the engine idling, the nastiest sounds are be heard when the clutch
>is
>> in. I put it on jack stands and took a look today and was wondering how
>> tough it is to get the bell housing unbolted (hard to get at the top
>> bolts?). After I get those loose, how to proceed?
>>
>> -Bryce
--
Bill & Skip Pugh
Two@Home
anabil@caltel.com
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