----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Oliver" <slantws@Home.com>
To: <erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
> Ok, I heard one recently that I hadn't heard before. That is, when
> retorquing to break each nut loose as you proceed through the sequence.
> Any opinions? Also, as I was thumbing through a TR maintenance manual at
VTR
> Portland last week, the book listed 105 lbs and the typical sequence and
> then suggested retorquing the head warm, but gave no value. I have
retorqued
> cold.
> Jerry Oliver
> Olympia, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu>
> To: <ArthurK101@aol.com>
> Cc: <greenman62@hotmail.com>; <kluckvon@students.uiuc.edu>;
> <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Tr4 Head studs
>
>
> >
> > There is no sacro-sanct rule on the head sequencing to torque the head.
> > Basic rule, stated here: start in the center, and work as a spiral
> > outwards to the end. Try to keep the same pattern. Take the studs to
> > about 50 ft-lb, then upwards at about 10 ft-lb per step, until about 90
> > ft-lb. Then in 5 ft-lb increments until the 105-110 level. After you
get
> > to about 70 ft-lb, you want to use a lead or brass mallet and hit the
head
> > on the end, a stout whack, after each torquing. If you don't have the
> > mallet, you can use a steel hammer, but put a piece of wood (oak is
best)
> > between. This relieves stresses in the head.
> >
> > On Tue, 8 Aug 2000
> > ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 07-Aug-00 17:57:36 Eastern Daylight Time,
> > > greenman62@hotmail.com writes:
> > >
> > > > You could do it numerically... I don't have my book handy either
> > > > however, the trick is to start with the nuts in the middle of the
> > > > head (between 2 and 3 cylinders) and work outward to either end
of
> > > > the head it's kind of like a spiral. I'll try to do you a picture
> > > > (see below)
> > > >
> > > > 8 6 1 3 9
> > > > 10 4 2 5 7
> > > >
> > > > I hope it doesn't get too scrambled...
> > > >
> > >
> > > Greg, that is not the same as either my Haynes or the Factory manual
> shows.
> > > My Haynes manual (p.27 fig1.7) and the latter (p.1-127 fig.59) both
> show:
> > >
> > > 9 3 1 6 8
> > > 7 5 2 4 10
> > >
> > > With the upper numbers being the nuts under the rocker arms. Cheers.
> > >
> > > Art Kelly
> > >
> >
> > James A. Ruffner
> >
>
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