There is no sacro-sanct rule on the head sequencing to torque the head.
Basic rule, stated here: start in the center, and work as a spiral
outwards to the end. Try to keep the same pattern. Take the studs to
about 50 ft-lb, then upwards at about 10 ft-lb per step, until about 90
ft-lb. Then in 5 ft-lb increments until the 105-110 level. After you get
to about 70 ft-lb, you want to use a lead or brass mallet and hit the head
on the end, a stout whack, after each torquing. If you don't have the
mallet, you can use a steel hammer, but put a piece of wood (oak is best)
between. This relieves stresses in the head.
On Tue, 8 Aug 2000
ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 07-Aug-00 17:57:36 Eastern Daylight Time,
> greenman62@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > You could do it numerically... I don't have my book handy either
> > however, the trick is to start with the nuts in the middle of the
> > head (between 2 and 3 cylinders) and work outward to either end of
> > the head it's kind of like a spiral. I'll try to do you a picture
> > (see below)
> >
> > 8 6 1 3 9
> > 10 4 2 5 7
> >
> > I hope it doesn't get too scrambled...
> >
>
> Greg, that is not the same as either my Haynes or the Factory manual shows.
> My Haynes manual (p.27 fig1.7) and the latter (p.1-127 fig.59) both show:
>
> 9 3 1 6 8
> 7 5 2 4 10
>
> With the upper numbers being the nuts under the rocker arms. Cheers.
>
> Art Kelly
>
James A. Ruffner
|