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Fwd: GT6 rotoflex (long)

To: brenner9@yosemite.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Fwd: GT6 rotoflex (long)
From: FMags2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:15:57 EDT

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Return-path: FMags2@aol.com
From: FMags2@aol.com
Full-name: FMags2
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:15:09 EDT
Subject: Re: GT6 rotoflex (long)
To: mdporter@rt66.com

In a message dated 4/6/99 6:54:24 PM Central Daylight Time, mdporter@rt66.com 
writes:

<< There is no tool number for this, as far as I know--the factory manual
 gives dimensions for its construction and instructions for its use. >>

True.

<Some people simply do not have the fabrication tools necessary to make it,
 and I have come up with a way to do the same thing without fabrication.
 The shock absorber must be removed from the vertical link to remove the
 link, so I go one step further, and remove the shock and top mounting
 bolt. That allows the spring to almost reach full downward travel. After
 removing the vertical link, I put a floor jack under the spring eye,
 jack it up to the approximate optimum position for re-installation, run
 a short chain under the spring and hold it in place with the shock bolt.
 That's the poor man's way to avoid the horrible struggle involved in
 getting the vertical link installed after repairs. Once the link and
 throughbolts are in place, the jack is used to raise the link and
 spring, and then the chain can be removed and the shock re-installed.>

Good idea; just goes to show that there's more than one way to skin a cat.
 
 
 > e.  Fit the new rotofles; I believe that you should not remove the steel 
band
 > around the new rotoflex until all 6 bolts are at least started.  If you
 > replace the bolts, use at least grade 6 or stronger.  Do not use hardware
 > grade bolts (grade 2); these will break.
 
 The important thing to remember here is that the bolts for the Rotoflex
 joints are special--they have unthreaded ends to act as guides to
 prevent cross-threading. When the joint is installed to both axles, it
 is not true--that is, it has the general shape along its radius of a
 warp washer. Therefore, the bolts simply won't go straight in--it is
 very easy to cross-thread a full-thread bolt. If the bolts must be
 replaced, best to bite the bullet and buy new replacements--lots fewer
 headaches involved.>

True.  When I did mine, replacements were not available, so I got new grade 6 
or 8 (can't remember) bolts threaded all the way.  Your are very correct, you 
have to be very careful to not cross-thread them , but it can be done.
 
 Cheers.
 
  >>

Thanks, Michael.  Good info, and I now know that my e-mail problem is fixed!

Frank M.


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