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Crank Nut

To: "'geohahn@azstarnet.com'" <geohahn@azstarnet.com>, "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Crank Nut
From: autoxr@zebra.net (Erik Bjorkner)
Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 07:30:44 -0600

Congrats on getting that &%#&^% thing off.  Since you used heat, will
you need to replace the nut with a new one prior to reassembly?

Geo Hahn
59 TR3A




Geo,

I have purchased a used nut from TSI; however, the amount of heat used didn't 
even burn the paint off (cheap K-Mart brand or spray bomb).  I was more worried 
about heat transfer to the main bearings and the timing setup.  I believe the 
heat helped some but more than likely gave me another reason to keep whacking 
with a hammer instead of getting the drill out!!  The torch used is a small one 
that takes those 1# bottles of MAPP and Propane gasses.. mine also has O2 to 
get a little hotter.  The torch tip is small.. flame was about 1/4 to 3/8 inch 
long and I could hear some popping around the base of the nut and the pulley 
which I was hopping was some rust popping lose.  Prior to getting the torch, I 
sprayed the hut with all types lubricants, I was desperate!!  

Back to the nut, mine had some chisel marks (before I started my attempt) but 
in the tightening direction which had me concerned the nut was left handed.  I 
am kind of particular in I like everything to be "just so" so a new nut is in 
order.  I do not believe the nut has any tensile strength loss due the heat as 
I could touch the pulley with my hand right after I removed the nut.

I hope this long winded explanation is what you were looking for.

Best wished,

Erik

PS: Where are the other two (2) main bearings like my Volvo's had????   WOW!!!!


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