James;
The bypass in a B18/20 engine is internal and directly below the the
thermostat . It goes vertically down to the pump. I dont think were talking
about a t-stat that functions the same as a TR3 unit, however, I'm willing
to admit I aint got all the answers. The stock thermostat has a spring
loaded plate on the bottom of the" wax" housing that, when the t-stat
opens, covers the tube leading down into the pump. Ive got a TR 3 and a 65
122S in my driveway, and I dont see how these to thermostats can
interchange without mods. My recomendation is to partially block the
bypass, install a standard t-stat(investigate the HP chevy one avalible
from Stant) . Or (what I'm going to do) pay XK Unlimited $27 and get thiers
to see if it will work.
BTW, B20's wern't avalible in 122s, and in 1800's only after 68. I
think I
like the B18's better.
I can get you all the B18/B20 t-stats you want, but I don't think you want
them.
Don Boyd
----------
> From: JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com
> To: dbji@whidbey.net
> Subject: Volvo t'stat -> Triumph
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:47 AM
>
> Don,
> I'm a former Volvo addict that broke my habit, only to get hooked on
LBCs.
> On my desk sits a skirted thermostat from either a P1800S or a 122;
B20B
> anyway. The outer diameter, near as I can tell without calipers, is
52 mm.
> and it fits well into my TR3, so I plan to use it as it's still
functional.
> When open, the diameter the water will flow through is about 37 mm,
which
> apparently is sufficient.
> I have contacted IPD; no luck there. Scott Cameron there did know
what I
> meant; he has one on his 122, but they don't carry them. He
suggested
> trying Victoria British......I suspect these thermostats just aren't
made
> anymore, but maybe they are, someplace.
> Meanwhile, the best idea I think I've heard is finding a washer of
just the
> right dimensions and placing it at the outlet (inlet?) of the
thermostat
> housing where the bypass tube goes on. Maybe a drop of JB Weld to
hold it
> in place would be in order.
> I have saved an article from an Australian enthusiast who believes
at
> least a 3/8" opening should be maintained. I do think these engines
> have tendencies toward hot spots and if it were me I'd err on the
side
> of caution, and go with the bigger hole.
> Anyway, if you have any leads on NOS B20B thermostats it seems there
> are a bunch of listers who'd snap them up.
> Regards,
> Jim Wallace
> ********************************
>
> From: "DON BOYD, JOAN IKOMA" <dbji@whidbey.net>
> Subject: Re: TR2/3/4 - Blocking the Bypass: hole or not?
>
> All most all cars have some sort of bypass. Many american cars have
water
> circulating through the heater core all the time. Most import cars
deal
> with it with a bypass hose, but there are some exceptions. Some
dont have
> anything to circulate the water when warming up, but mostly this is
poor
> enginering. Some companies anticipate where the hot spots would be
and put
> aditional material/larger water jackets there. They figure the heads
won't
> crack until the warantee runs out. ;-)
> I think the 1/4 hole in the bypass tube is the right solution. If
someone
> will send me a defunct Tr 3 bypass cutoff type t-stat, I'll tell the
list
> if any Volvo / VW ones will work.
>
> Don Boyd
|