I don't have one to give you, but I DO have some of the critical
measurements.
Skirt Diameter 1.930 (inches)
Skirt length 0.400 (this is a replacement, non-TR type)
Flange diameter 2.125
I.D. of housing (at level of skirt) 1.975
Flange to bypass hole (in housing) 0.360
Bypass hole width (in housing) 0.345
The original thermostat opens "backwards" and the skirt which
is on the engine-side of the bypass hole when cold, moves toward
the radiator and covers the hole when hot. The replacement type I have
info
about works the normal way, and the skirt is up tight against the flange
when cold, and moves toward the engine and covers the hole
when hot.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I have limited info about
the original part, but I have a TR4 housing sitting here in my hand.
There is quite a bit of room on both sides from the flange for
non-standard parts to fit. The critical measurements I gave you.
-Tony
__________________________
>Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:20:53 -0700
From: "DON BOYD, JOAN IKOMA" <dbji@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: TR2/3/4 - Blocking the Bypass: hole or not?
All most all cars have some sort of bypass. Many american cars have water
circulating through the heater core all the time. Most import cars deal
with it with a bypass hose, but there are some exceptions. Some dont have
anything to circulate the water when warming up, but mostly this is poor
enginering. Some companies anticipate where the hot spots would be and put
aditional material/larger water jackets there. They figure the heads won't
crack until the warantee runs out. ;-)
I think the 1/4 hole in the bypass tube is the right solution. If someone
will send me a defunct Tr 3 bypass cutoff type t-stat, I'll tell the list
if any Volvo / VW ones will work.
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