Carl,
The real trick is to choose a hone with fine enough stones and use
liberal amounts of fluid (not fluif) to keep the cylinder from scoring.
Also, one must remember to keep the thing moving in and out while the
drill is turning, and finally, collapse the tension on the stones when
they are removed.
Regards,
Joe Curry (Never lost a cylinder in 30 years)
CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:
>
> <<Minor stuff can be removed from the
> cylinder walls with a special brake clinder hone in an electric drill.>>
> I say be careful with those drill honers ... lost a couple decent cores
> myself that way by making it rougher, uneven and a mess. This last time I
> rebuilt the master cylinder (first time replacing rubber on this one) I used
> some steel wool on a stick to polish the bore with much better luck (bore was
> in pretty good shape already though).
> Carl
> '64 TR4
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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