Malcolm Walker wrote:
>
> Well, I'm now a self-taught Master Of Welding (in progress...)
>
> But I'll need to know how to braze in order to install the captured nuts
> into the back of my B-Post.
Well, I'm no master, but I've got 2 cents.
>
> I thought about welding them, and then I thought that brazing wouldn't
> invite the metal to warp so much.
>
> I have a Victor oxy-acetylene kit, with 4 tips: #000, #0, #2, & #4. The
> 000 is what gets used on sheet metal. I also have some Lincoln brass
> electrodes (I think- my brother bought them & tried to braze w/ a propane
> torch... not work)
The idea is to get the work piece just hot enough to melt the rod (after
all, you've got no puddle in the piece itself) so a 'proper' brazing tip
makes a wide low flame for even heating. You should be able to compensate
for this if you keep the tip moving. You don't need as much heat, since you
don't want the workpiece to get anywhere close to melting (just a moderate
red for typical brazing rod). If you don't get a better answer, I get some
scrap metal, try the 000 and the 4 and go from there. This will also give you
an idea of how hot it needs to get. It will depend a lot on how much
metal you have to heat up.
>
> Will I be able to braze with this setup? Which tip should I use? (I'm
> thinking the 0, but it's a bit gummy... the 000 is nicer (newer)) How hot
> does the metal(s) have to get? Should I forget the flux-coated gunk and
> buy some filler rod from the welding supply house? Or is it the same
> stuff?
>
Well I suppose the electrodes might work, but I'd suggest you go out and
spend a couple of bucks on the right filler and flux. You do need the flux
(usually a powder that comes in a can), to keep the steel clean and make
the filler ooz into all the nooks and cranies. If I remember right there's
different fluxes for different compositions of rod.
Good luck.
> thanks,
> -Malcolm
--
Reed Mideke rmideke@interbase.com
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