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Re: Clutch bleeding problem?

To: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Clutch bleeding problem?
From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 11:46:54 -0800
Cc: Edward Hamilton <hamilton@ptd.net>, Triumphs Mail List <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Organization: Curry Enterprises
References: <Pine.OSF.3.95.980318102446.20154A-100000@ccins.camosun.bc.ca>
Ed,
In reading Malcolm's reply, something occured tome.  Is your line from
the master cyl to the slave, coiled as most are?  This is where likely
you will get a trapped air bubble.  I like the idea of securing the
clutch so the arm doesn't move.  This makes it easier to build up
sufficient pressure to force an air bubble out of the line.

Joe

Malcolm Walker wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, Edward Hamilton wrote:
> 
> > I followed the recent thread on clutch bleeding -- knowing it to be on
> > the list of things that the '80 spitfire keeps me around for.  While
> > replacing the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing, I rebuilt the
> > slave cylinder (which was leaking.)
> > After following various list members instructions for clutch bleeding, I
> > remain with a soft pedel.  It's currently at a point where fluid drips
> > out when the bleed screw is opened, but pedel action doesn't seem to be
> > pushing anything -- there's just no resistance at all.
> > Everything worked fine prior to the dissambly, so...I'm assuming its not
> > a master cylinder problem?  Appreciate all replys.
> 
> If all the fluid got drained out of the system, chances are you have a
> pocket of air that is refusing to move.
> 
> My dad's Cortina had this happen after the brakes were refurbished.  To
> fix you wrap a rag around the fitting on the master, pressurize the
> system, and 'bleed' the fitting- undo it enough to get fluid to come out,
> then do it back up.
> 
> Hope it works, and be careful with DOT4 on paint...
> 
> -Malcolm
> 
> PS you may also want to try blocking the control arm, so that nothing
> moves when you bleed the hydraulics.

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