First off, thanks to all on the list that helped with my brake bleeder screw
problem.
The non-mangled one was removed as follows:
Application of PB Blaster (they had it at our local Benny's hardware store)
Six point deep throat 3/8" socket, 3/8" drive with adapter to 1/2" drive
ratchet (the "5 sided" fuel line box wrench was a co-conspirator in the first
misguided disaster).
The bleeder came out easily, with no damage.
The history of the mangled one was as follows:
Attempt 12 point box wrench
Attempt 5 sided fuel line box wrench (it actually started to spread - Sears)
Attempt vise grips
Attempt pipe wrench
Not much left to work with at this point
Drill for easy-out, still doesn't budge (starting to check on prices of new
calipers)
Drill for largest easy-out I own, equally unbudgable
E-mail the list for help
As suggested, applied heat and with MUCH force, it's outta there! (with no
damage to the caliper!)
Only one negative thing - the fitting on the passenger side brake line didn't
want to let go of the tube, so now I get to replace the brake line between the
hose and the master cylinder.
When the TR3A brake lines go together, they are definitely getting anti-seize.
Another interesting observation is that the bleeder screws from a 1989
Plymouth Voyager fits the TR4A calipers and rear slave cylinders.
Thanks again to all that responded. This may seem like a trivial issue, but
as you can see, the wrong approach can lead down the path to disaster.
Bill Babbitt
TR3A in a Bag (but hopefully not for ever)
Gales Ferry, Ct.
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