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Re: Name that tune (rusty tappet revisited)

To: "Larry Quirk" <Larry.E.Quirk@gov.ab.ca>, "William West" <will_thane@email.msn.com>, "Triumph List" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: Name that tune (rusty tappet revisited)
From: "Larry Quirk" <Larry.E.Quirk@gov.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 22:00:17 -0700
OOps, forgot to tell you that the lifters can be changed by taking off the
valve cover, backing off the rocker arm, remove the pushrod and pull the
lifter out of its bore with a tool ( I use a strong magnet on an extention
rod).  Total time to replace is about half an hour including adjusting all
the valves while your in there.  When you start your new engine, you must
immediately breakin the cam & lifter mating sufaces - this is done by
running the engine at about 2500rpm for about 20 minutes and yes, this
assuems that you used cam lube on the cam lobes when you installed the cam
(cam lube has a high moly content).  The majority of premature cam wear
occurs in this first 20 min. if the engine speed is not kept high enough to
keep the lifter spinning in their bores.
Larry (Spitman)
----------
> From: Larry Quirk <Larry.E.Quirk@gov.ab.ca>
> To: William West <will_thane@email.msn.com>; Triumph List
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Name that tune (rusty tappet revisited)
> Date: Tuesday, February 10, 1998 9:46 PM
> 
> Pits on side of tappet can be looked upon as small pockets for the oil to
> collect in and provide some reserve of lubrication between the lifter and
> the block.  It sounds like you took off any high spots with the emery. 
By
> all means use it provided the face which contacts the cam is flaw free. 
It
> is the cam face that takes all of the punishment.
> Larry (Spitman)
> 
> ----------
> > From: William West <will_thane@email.msn.com>
> > To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Name that tune (rusty tappet revisited)
> > Date: Tuesday, February 10, 1998 9:20 PM
> > 
> > A while ago, I wrote to the list about a kent cam tappet that had
rusted
> > (along the vertical, up and down, exterior--not the point of contact
with
> > the cam),in storage.  Well, I took the rust off with naval jelly and
> emery
> > cloth and I was left with a pitted but otherwise decent enough lifter
> that
> > still moves smoothly in the bore.
> > 
> > I took the tappet down to my local brit-guru, old jag restoration, new
> jag
> > repair shop and asked the owner/mechanic about the tappet.  He told me
> that
> > if it were his car, he would use it, but if he were building an engine
> for a
> > customer, he would replace it. He was otherwise noncommital.
> > 
> > My question to the list: how should I translate this advice?????  Was
he
> > telling me that the lifter is just fine and shouldn't pose a problem
but
> if
> > it were a customer's car, he would want to be absolutely certain, or
was
> he
> > saying that since he does this stuff for a living, replacing the
lifter,
> > should it fail, is an easy job so go for it. (?)
> > 
> > Yeah, strange question, I know, but I'm curious to see how others would
> > respond to this advice...  My only hesitation is that ordering a new
set
> of
> > tappets from Kent Cams means another month of mail delays, another 37
> pounds
> > sterling (what's that convert to these days???), and I really, really,
> > really want this engine in the car by the 20th of this month.
> > 
> > Thanks guys for your patience with this greenbean!
> > Will
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 

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