Just some random thoughts on the "report":
On Tue, 20 Jan 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> Well, as I previously posted, I sent my newly purchased TR6 (my 1st
> LBC) out to the local 'expert' for a once-over.
>
> This is what he reported:
>
> - compression: 140 140 140 100 120 130
> 100 due to burned valve, not rings. Valve job ~$500 depending on parts
> required.
That price may not be out of line, but I'll assume it includes R&R of the
head, etc. Recent head-removal horror stories notwithstanding, you might
save a fair number of $$$ doing the R&R yourself. If you don't disturb
carb. and ignition settings during this "bull work", at worst you'd be
able to get it all back together, valve clearances set, then drive it back
to the shop for further adjustments as might be needed. Just a suggestion.
> - Right front-end is sloppy; either a tie rod or bushings. He says if
> it is the tie rod, small problem. If it's bushing I may need a new
> front rack (?)
I don't quite understand the latter part. Which bushing(s)? Tie rod, tie
rod end, or what?
> - the tranny is loud in neutral. Bearing noise. Could last a long
> time; may need to be re-built in the future. $12-1300 (OUCH!)
Yeah, ouch is right. Could it just be clutch throwout bearing making all
the noise? And, the obvious: is there sufficient gear lube in the tranny?
> - rear brakes are dragging. Can't remove one drum despite repeated
> heating with a torch. May have to damage the drum to remove it (ala
> recent hammer hread). Maybe rusted e-brake mechanism.
What was being heated? If the handbrake mechanism is set up, at worst you
should be able to remove the pin that holds the cable to the lever in the
wheel cylinder, gently drive the lever to its "home" position, and
proceed. If the adjuster is bound up, at worst it's likely that careful
application of heat with a propane torch to the adjuster shaft, followed
by use of a wrench that will properly grip the shaft without slipping,
should get that turning. Then back it down in the usual quarter-turn
increments until the shoes are well free from the drum. If the drum itself
somehow is really stuck (make sure those two screws are out; again, sorry
to state the obvious) after making sure shoes are no longer binding or
dragging, then careful banging the face of the drum at various points and
perhaps the backside rim at various points really OUGHT to loosen the durn
thing up, at which point it will fall off. I know they do bind on
sometimes, but it's never taken me more than 2-3 minutes of "persuasion"
to remove on of these. Once or twice I've taken to the use of a large,
two-jawed "gear" puller as a method of applying rather more even
"persuasion"!
> - Other than that, not a bad car. Oh, previous frame work and repair
> noticed.
Again, just thoughts....
--Andy
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* Andrew Mace, President and *
* 10/Herald/Vitesse (Sports 6) Consultant *
* Vintage Triumph Register *
* amace@unix2.nysed.gov *
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