Peter Lucas wrote:
> Andrew,
>
> The later half shafts are longer by a 1/2" EACH! Together they
> equal
> 1". When swaping to a swing spring setup, (the spring is 1" longer
> than
> that of earlier models), you need to also replace the half shafts to
> make up this 1" difference. Otherwise you'll be driving on your
> sidewalls and that wont add to better handeling.
>
> PL '64 Spitfire (with swing spring mod)
>
> Andrew Mace wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, 26 Nov 1997, Peter Lucas wrote:
> >
> > > First- you need a later model spring.
> > > Second- (2) new half shafts. The later model Spits
> are a total
> > > of 1" wider.
> >
> > Note that the later axles (1" longer each; total increase in track
> 2")
> > are NOT necessary. Nice, but not necessary.
> >
> > > Third- Are you going to press those things
> yourself?
> > > (Look up old thread $$$)
> >
> > What do you need to press, unless you're looking into a complete
> rebuild
> > of each rear axle assembly? It's usually easier to buy complete,
> longer
> > units (if that's the route you wish to go) and install them
> complete.
> >
> > > Fourth- You will most likely run into clearance
> problems.
> > > The spring sits a little lower and
> the axles stand
> > > a little wider. Result-tires hit
> fenders.
> >
> > See above comments.
> >
> > > If your willing to go through all that work, than you should
> replace
> > > your shocks, diff mounts, bushings and u-joints as well. This ='s
> $$$
> > > It is, however, the route I took on my '64 restoration and I
> didn't
> > > notice much of a difference in handeling. A bit less roll but I
> think
> > > that an anti roll bar would have given about the same increase in
> > > performance.
> >
> > I think that the benefits of the later swing-spring suspension
> (which
> > really must be paired with the fatter front anti-roll bar) come
> mostly "at
> > the limit"; the swing-spring greatly lessens the tendency of the
> rear
> > wheels to "jack" under the car. In more "normal" driving, I wouldn't
>
> > expect to notice much of a difference between suspension types.
> > Meanwhile, it's probably good to replace all those items you
> mentioned
> > regardless. There's always a good chance that you'll have been the
> first
> > ever to do this!
> >
> > > If I had to do it over again, I would have replaced the
> > > shocks with a set of Konis, replaced the mounts, installed
> urathane
> > > bushings, new u-joints and an Addco 5/8" anti roll bar. Good tires
> can
> > > also make a big difference. Oh yea- If you need to replace your
> leaf
> > > spring, I would suggest TRF over Vic Brit. Good luck!
> >
> > The "classic" option is to simply dearch the original spring
> somewhat.
> > Relatively cheap, and makes quite a difference. Upgraded shocks
> (Koni or
> > Spax) also are worthwhile if you're serious about driving. And,
> there's
> > always those elusive camber compensators! ;-)
> >
> > --Andy
> >
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > * Andrew Mace, President and *
> > * 10/Herald/Vitesse (Sports 6) Consultant *
> > * Vintage Triumph Register *
> > * amace@unix2.nysed.gov *
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Don't mean to jump in here but i have a question in this area. I
have a 63 spit. The rear tires are tilted in at the bottom ( bottom of
tires are closer together than the top of the tires). It looks sortof
like the rear tires on a volkswagen without a engine in it. Is this
normal? Could it be caused by this upgrade?
Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!
Lew 63 and 67 spit
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