Hugh R McAleer wrote:
>
> Damn Dude! Having a good day there!
>
> Just some thoughts....You can put a band aid on the plunger and spring
> and that will increase your oil pressure,,,,just put a small washer on
> the plunger before installing the spring.
Went to the parts car during lunch hour and pulled its plunger and
spring (plunger in better shape and the spring was stiffer) and
installed those (well, first, I stopped to flush the garbage out of the
front carb float valve, which stuck open as I left the parking lot,
poured gas out of every orifice in the carburetor--this car is starting
to seem like the neverending repair job). Pressure came up about 5-10
psi at best.
Well, changed the oil and filter this evening and will likely have to
eat a bit of crow (do they still say "eat cheese" in Minnesota? <g>). I
figured, judging by the construction of the filter, that the filter or
relief valve would lift against the spring if the filter started to
clog, even if the bypass relief valve was crudded up and wasn't working.
Wrong.... It was pretty well stuck to the block and looked as if it
hadn't been changed since WWII (after doing service in an Army Jeep
_during_ WWII), and the spring had been bent, and that put a side load
on the relief valve, so it had worn a very shallow groove in the through
bolt--and that locked the valve against the filter and the filter
against the block. Put on a new filter and changed the oil, and the
pressure is up, way up....
That may not be the whole answer, but what I do know, with the engine
fully warm, I had perhaps 15-20 psi at idle, and not much more than 5-10
psi above that anywhere above idle. After the oil and filter change,
it's about 55 psi at idle, and 80-85 at speed, fully warm. Greatly
relieved.
> The rocker shaft and rockers are notorious for wearing. Last time I
> looked an aftermarket one was around $50-$60 and the OEM was $150 or so.
>
> The bushes for the rockers are available from TRF.
I was mostly curious if someone rebuilt the whole assembly on an
exchange basis... the local machine shop wants something like $8 each to
rebush and ream them to size, and that, along with a shaft and the
bushes, gets a little hefty. Thought I remembered some shop advertising
a remanufactured set, exchange, at a reasonable price.
> The oil seepage at the head could be any of the things you mentioned.
> I've seen several with that problem, including mine, but the rear tab is
> broken off of mine, so I can't even try to fix it.
Retorquing the head has slowed it down considerably, but not completely
stopped it. If I can get a little relief from work, I may spend a
Saturday pulling the head and checking the mating surfaces and the
gasket. Given the way everything else was repaired (or not repaired,
regardless of the intent to repair on the shop's part) on the car, I'd
expect to find gravel under the head gasket. <g>
> I use Accel plugs, and even on that well worn loaner motor, they hold up
> well.
Uh, anything up to and including Bill's Homemade Spark Plugs would have
been better than what I took out. <g> Going to install the Allison
electronic ignition soon, and I think that will slow down the rate of
fouling.
Found out I had no brake lights at all yesterday--no switch installed.
Found one in the odds and sods box and got the lights working... moments
after fixing that, the inside door latch linkage broke. Ah, well. This
car knows I'm going to fix what's wrong, and is testing me.... <g>
Did you get the 'Vette rear end back from the shop yet?
Cheers.
--
My other Triumph runs, but....
|