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Re: TR6 oil change access

To: SBoz39@aol.com, Martin Libhart <mlibhart@feist.com>
Subject: Re: TR6 oil change access
From: Ken Streeter <streeter@sanders.com>
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 17:42:52 -0400
Cc: "Philip E. Barnes" <peb3@cornell.edu>, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Lockheed Sanders, Inc.
References: <v02120002af8fb67f1043@[128.84.47.176]> <336A1230.50CC@feist.com>
SBoz39@aol.com wrote:


> My TR6 mechanic/restorer says he won't change the oil
> again unless we put an access hole in the inner fender
> to get to the bolt and filter.  He says some of the
> later TR6's had access holes from the factory, or maybe
> dealer. 

Don't do it!  Please don't cut a hole in the fender!

The best solution is to install a spin-on oil
filter adapter.  This will cost you about $40
from TRF / Moss / VB, and will reduce oil changes
to a fifteen minute operation.  (I just did one
on Tuesday in that length of time.)

If, however, you want to retain the stock filter
cannister, the bolt isn't hard to get to at all, one
simply removes the wiring from the oil pressure
warning light connetion, and the filter cannister
can be moderately easily removed.  The *hard* part is
getting the canister out to be able to clean it out
and put a new filter in.

Before I switched to the spin-on filter, I found that
the best way to do this is from under the car, by
loosening the clutch slave cylinder.  The slave cylinder
can then be rotated out of the way just far enough
to get the canister out.  Clean it up, put in a new
filter, and away you go.  This sounds easy, but be
prepared for a horrible mess!  The only other thing
to watch out for is making sure you don't let the
canister rotate at all when tightening it back down,
or the seal will mis-seat between the canister and
the block, and oil will pour out.  ('been there,
done that...)  Also, be sure to take out the old
rubber seal before putting a new one in -- it's not
uncommon for people to have two of them down in there...

Finally, some prefer to remove the fuel pump to make
space to remove the canister from the top.  This may
not be sufficient on '75/76 cars with the air pump
diverter valve there, but I don't know, as I've never
owned one of those...


Martin Libhart wrote:

> While we're on the oil filter subject, what is everyone
> using as a spin-on filter.  I know MOSS emphasizes that
> you use a filter that has a bypass valve.  Any info on
> FRAM, WIX, PUROLATOR, etc. equivalents to
> the filter that MOSS sells???

I don't know the equivalent to what Moss sells, but I
use a Motorcraft FL300A.  This is the same as a
FRAM PH3600.  This filter is used on 1986-1992 Ford
Taurus 3.0 V6 engines, if you get to the store, and
can't remember the numbers. 

This is a somewhat larger (in height) oil filter,
than those typically used, but I feel it gives excellent
oil flow, and it fits the adaptor perfectly.  This is
the filter that was suggested in the VTR magazine by
somebody who did a survey some number of years back
from the Oil Filter Manufacturer's Spec Sheets on
bypass valves, flow rates, etc.

--ken
'70/'74 TR6 Daily Drivers

-- 
Kenneth B. Streeter         | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
Sanders, PTP2-A001          | 
PO Box 868                  | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Nashua, NH 03061            | Fax:   (603) 885-0631

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