John Haynes wrote:
> Hello Paul
> It is not a good idea to piss into the wind. However if you insist. The
>original #4 cap must be used, the new one would require a line bore job. Buy
>standard thrust washers, mount them and measure the end float. Fabricate a
>shim the thicknes of the clearance minus .00l5. Shape it into the half circle
>shape of the thrust. Drill the bad side of the cap, shim and thrust with two
>1/8" holes 3/8" deep into the cap. Fabricate two 1/8" pins into the cap and
>file them so that they do not stand proud of the thrust. It would be ok to
>mill the old cap first, but why get fancy. You should get a few thousand miles
>out of it before it drops the thrust again. Check the end float every fill-up
>by moving the front crank pulley with a pry bar . You will be able to feel
>any dramatic changes.
> Sam Haynes
> TR3 Original owner
> TR 6
> Tiger>
Sam; I checked the runout with a good new set of thrust washers(std,
size) It's .018". After reading your advice, I ordered the the .015 and
.030" oversize sets from TRF. Between these and the standard sets, I
should get something workable. What material would you suggest for the
pins? Brass, steel? There a a lot of machine tool supply companies in
the RI area, so finding the stock shouldn't be a problem.
BTW, What year Tiger? I've owned 2-'66's and a '65. Maybe a small block
Ford is the real cure to these TR engine maintainence problems!
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