> If you can wire a Spit in less than one day, you are one hell of a man. I'm
> not saying you can't, mind you, I'm just saying I sure can't! To do that, you
> would not only have to be a very fast worker, but you would also have to know
> the wiring of the car like the back of your hand. If you can, I sure envy
> you.
It's a talent I've got. For real. Some folks are just real good at something,
electrical harnesses are my strange forte. Dunno why. But I should have said
that
what I was thinking of was making an effective harness, not a "correct"
harness.
You're absolutely right, you've got to have many many spools of very strangly
color
coded wire to make a correctly coded harness. Not to mention many strange
splice games
in harness and lots and lots of electrical tape. When I do the bikes, I tend
to lean
more towards an effective harness, and away from a factory coded harness.
Especially since I don't have a zillion spools of various colored and sized
wires
hanging around in a shop or at my place. Bikes are often a bit easier anyway
since
they don't use so many colors. Same color wire may be used in several
different
applications. Location means as much as color on them.
On the cars, I really like using the color or number or letter type tabs and or
collars
to identify wires. That way I'm not so dependent on colors of the insulation
and don't
need so many different spools. Of course, in doing so it is imperative to have
a coded
diagram drawn for the vehicle. Which isn't such a big deal on a motorcycle.
While
motorcycles have a few less components then a car (just a very few nowadays),
their big
advantage for working is you can reach from one end to the other quite easily
and can
use a meter to check connections from end to end as well without lots of jumper
wires.
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