Ralph,
Your simulated Churchill axle hub removal tool sounds good, you should be
aware the Churchill tool I have (60's vintage) has a ball bearing (single
ball) imbedded in the end of the threaded rod to allow rotation of the
rod without mucking up the end of the axle... I don't know how you can
simulate this..
The purpose of the thick plate bolted to the lugs is to keep the hub flat
in the process, so when you put it back together the wheel will be
perpendicular to the axle. If it bends, the force on the lugs will pull the
hub away with the plate at the ends as you push in the center, creating a
concave hub face. If this happens, the hub is scrap. build the flat plate out
of one solid, strong piece of steel (in case your hubs arent the
easy type). Welding up to the KO adaptor probably wont provide the
needed rigidity.
You can replace your wheel studs with wire wheel versions that are longer
(I think, at least on Stags they are) for this operation.
As others have said, sometimes it works, sometimes not. I had one in a
machine shop with the press thru the roof and they couldn't get the hub
off without ruining it. Most (some) shops don't understand that the
face can't be bent in the process or how to support it to prevent
bending...
Good luck!
Clark
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