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BOUNCE triumphs: Non-member submission from [Jeff Nathanson <jeffn@msyst

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: BOUNCE triumphs: Non-member submission from [Jeff Nathanson <jeffn@msystech.com>]
From: Mark J Bradakis <mjb@spitfire.cs.utah.edu>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 15:18:03 -0400
     Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 01:42:24 -0400
     From: Jeff Nathanson <jeffn@msystech.com>
     Subject: TR6 Head 

        I'm glad to have finally completed the first stage of refurbishing my
cylinder head. It took about three weeks, 4 stud removers, 2 cans of
a "Liquid Wrench", one engine hoist, a lot of my sweat, and a three foot
pipe at the end of my ratchet to increase the torque to remove the last stud.
Basically, the last two studs had so much of a carbon build up that it kept
the head from being lifted off even with an engine hoist. (I also tried the
"rope through the spark plug hole" routine without any success). With only
one stud remaining, the head was secured to the block.

        One thing I did notice was the old head gasket was missing two holes
that allows coolant to the head. These holes (or missing holes) were next to the
studs that were highly carbonized. I don't know if this was the original
gasket, but I wonder if this could be a source of lack of power?

        P.S. The Sears' stud remover should be used cautiously, if at all.
It WILL remove the threads and does not offer a good grip if only a small
part of the stud is available. I highly recommend either the Snap-On
or MAC stud remover. They are made by the same manufacturer.


                        Thanks,
                        Jeff Nathanson
                        '71 TR6 (minus head, for now)

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