On Thu, 11 May 1995, Peter J Barrance wrote:
> I tried to set my valve clearances last weekend.
> 1. How exact do you have to be about turning the motor to the exact point
> on the cam where two of the valve springs are fully compressed?
I don't think you need to be that accurate. The cam lobe should be
concentric over a wide degree window. Does that make any sense? I didn't
think so. Umm.. Hmm. The inactive portion of the cam lobe is rather
large, and will be ground to a constant radius. As long as the
lifter is contacting this portion, you'll have zero lift.
> 2. What's the best way to set this point accurately?
I don't do well with silly remembering games, so I don't try to remember
them. I just use the fact that if a given valve for a cylinder is fully
open, its neighboring valve in the same cylinder is guaranteed to
be fully closed.
Here's a method I've used with good success.
#1, pull all the plugs. This will greatly simplify turning the engine
over by hand.
#2, pull the valve cover and loosen all of the valve adjuster nuts a
flat or two.
#3, rotate the engine by hand until any valve(s) is fully open, and
adjust the clearance on the neighboring vavle(s) in the same cylinder(s).
You'll have to turn the engine over two times to get all of the valves.
You'll know that you're done when none of the adjusters are loose anymore.
It's easy and fun and shouldn't take more than 20 minutes.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
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