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Dan,
�It looks like you have a good handle on this modification. Will you
will delete the booster?
As for trashing parts, if you have the room don't. Can't speak for the
core value of the MC and Generator but at least one of the two factory
exhaust manifolds is specific to the Tiger - _if I'm recalling
correctly_. It use to be cast manifolds were considered a toe stubbing
nuisance but I'm quite surprised at what people are asking for them
these days as they regard 60's/70's cars across all brands. Some prefer
the cast manifolds on the Tiger rather then deal with _potential_ leaks
with headers. Or some build to originality and would seek the cast
manifolds if the car they have has previously installed headers.
On 6/28/2021 12:44 PM, daniel doornbos via Tigers wrote:
> All, I sent the question last week about the stock 4:1 to 6:1 pedal
> ratio.� Tom H as always has a great solution ready to go and he sent
> his work details.� Tom's solution is great and well-engineered for
> those not wanting to alter the firewall.
>
> I don't mind the firewall modifications and since my car is a body
> only in primer the firewall modification is easy.� Don't look at the
> photos if you don't want to see the cutting of a Tiger.
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9
> <https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9>
>
> A quick run down of changes.
>
> * stock pedal ratio is 4:1, clevis pin hole is 3" from pivot and the
> pedal is 12" long.
> * Needed to drill a new 1/4 in hole 2" from pivot (1" higher than
> stock) for the clevis.� I did build up and grind smooth some extra
> material with the welder to match the thickness
> * The plan is to use the standard pedal mount top hole in the firewall.
> * Once the pedal was drilled the pedal bracket needed to be
> shortened and the lower mount hole moved up by 1" so I trimmed,
> drilled and welded the braket to clear the higher clevis pin
> * For the firewall I've cut a piece of steel plate and traced the
> stock holes to overlay on the firewall
> * I cut out two slots in the firewall leaving the perpendicular
> reinforcement braces to allow for moving up the MCs and pushrods.
> * I've ordered a 0.7 clutch and 15/16 Brake (Datsun) MC. Once I have
> those and am sure of the mounting hole pieces I'll drill the plate
> bolt it in place and weld it into position.� �Then I need to sort
> out the pushrod pin length and retention.
>
>
> I'm really happy with how the work went over the weekend. Please give
> any feedback if I'm overlooking something critical or if anyone has
> done anything similar.
>
> Also in digging through parts I was trying to decide if I should keep
> or trash parts.� Specifically, any reason to keep the original Master
> Cylinders, Exhaust manifolds, or generator?
>
> thanks for looking
> dan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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<p>Dan,</p>
<p>�It looks like you have a good handle on this modification. Will
you will delete the booster?</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>As for trashing parts, if you have the room don't. Can't speak
for the core value of the MC and Generator but at least one of the
two factory exhaust manifolds is specific to the Tiger - <u>if
I'm recalling correctly</u>. It use to be cast manifolds were
considered a toe stubbing nuisance but I'm quite surprised at what
people are asking for them these days as they regard 60's/70's
cars across all brands. Some prefer the cast manifolds on the
Tiger rather then deal with <u>potential</u> leaks with headers.
Or some build to originality and would seek the cast manifolds if
the car they have has previously installed headers.<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
</div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
</div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/28/2021 12:44 PM, daniel doornbos
via Tigers wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CY4PR18MB1496BFB9D6416C2E755FAB1CFD039@CY4PR18MB1496.namprd18.prod.outlook.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
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{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
All, I sent the question last week about the stock 4:1 to 6:1
pedal ratio.� Tom H as always has a great solution ready to go
and he sent his work details.� Tom's solution is great and
well-engineered for those not wanting to alter the firewall.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I don't mind the firewall modifications and since my car is a
body only in primer the firewall modification is easy.� Don't
look at the photos if you don't want to see the cutting of a
Tiger.��<a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9";
id="LPlnk" style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt;"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://photos.app.goo.gl/aw8dta9RoA4uwKRk9</a></div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
A quick run down of changes.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<ul>
<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">stock
pedal ratio is 4:1, clevis pin hole is 3" from pivot and
the pedal is 12" long.��</span></span></li>
<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Needed
to drill a new 1/4 in hole 2" from pivot (1" higher than
stock) for the clevis.� I did build up and grind smooth
some extra material with the welder to match the
thickness�</span></span></li>
<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The
plan is to use the standard pedal mount top hole in the
firewall.</span></span></li>
<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Once
the pedal was drilled the pedal bracket needed to be
shortened and the lower mount hole moved up by 1" so I
trimmed, drilled and welded the braket to clear the
higher clevis pin</span></span></li>
<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">For
the firewall I've cut a piece of steel plate and traced
the stock holes to overlay on the firewall</span></span></li>
<li><span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I cut
out two slots in the firewall leaving the perpendicular
reinforcement braces to allow for moving up the MCs and
pushrods.��</span></span></li>
<li>I've ordered a 0.7 clutch and 15/16 Brake (Datsun) MC.�
Once I have those and am sure of the mounting hole pieces
I'll drill the plate bolt it in place and weld it into
position.� �Then I need to sort out the pushrod pin length
and retention.</li>
</ul>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I'm really happy with how the work went over the weekend.�
Please give any feedback if I'm overlooking something critical
or if anyone has done anything similar.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Also in digging through parts I was trying to decide if I
should keep or trash parts.� Specifically, any reason to keep
the original Master Cylinders, Exhaust manifolds, or
generator?��</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>thanks for looking</div>
<div>dan</div>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<br>
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