Derek, and All. I pulled both hubs to change over to disc brakes. I used
penetrating oil, a wheel puller connected to the wheel studs, with a screw
tightened against the axle, a hammer, and two weeks of tightening and tapping.
The right side came off with no problem, but the left side took two weeks. No
rust.
The point of this post, is if you have them off, make sure you put anti seize
on both parts when you reassemble. I tried the right side with Mobil 1 grease,
and a week later took it off again. With the grease, it was like the first
time, tough.
After putting anti seize, no problem. I use it on the suspension parts as
well, and have taken the front spindle's off repeatedly with no problem. In
fact, if there is a tight fit, or if using ss nuts and bolts, I use anti seize.
Larry
Derek White wrote:
> Chris, Tom, Steve et. al.
>
> I had similar experiences-- no rust visible when they did come apart. I
> tried everything including heat, hammer, puller and prayer (which is a lot
> for an agnostic and indicative of my frustration at having my best efforts
> and heaviest blows come to nought.) Eventually took it to one suspension
> shop. Their 20 ton press failed. Next shop had 50 tons plus some
> oxy-acetylene-- Ta Da! They had to re-cut the threads on both shafts as they
> had distorted from the pressing. I was amazed at how well that taper could
> hold! Any explanations out there?
>
> cheers, derek
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Hill <Pirouette@uisreno.com>
> To: Tom Witt <wittsend@jps.net>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, August 24, 2001 6:11 AM
> Subject: tried to puller, but she punched me in the nose
>
> >Tom, Steve, and others,
> > There seems to be a broader issue here that Tom points to with his
> >well-detailed accounts of his experience. Steve's request for a summary in
> >United is understandable also, but my view is that the problem of hub and
> axle
> >removal is not as simple nor as responsive to a single solution as such
> older
> >advice (factory manual, CAT shopnotes, etc.) would lead one to believe.
> > As Tom notes, his hub/axle had no rust. Neither did the set I dealt
> >with. Yet it resisted a good shop puller with plenty of heat and hammer
> >blows and a body shop press afterwards. When the driveline shop gave it
> back
> >to us (we admitted defeat and gave it to them), the taper itself on the
> axle
> >(not the threads) was somewhat mushroomed and an area had been sheared off
> >straight.
> > Maybe they just weren't nice to it, but several people I talked to in
> >Monterey had had similar if less drastic experiences. My gut feeling now
> is
> >that some hubs or axles will come out using the standard solutions, but
> some
> >will not, and the differentiating factor has NOT been determined.
> > Tom had a heck of a time getting his axles out. I wasn't around when
> >they finally gave up doing it on the car here and pulled the axle out, but
> my
> >impression was that it was no problem. Getting the hub off the axle then
> >totaled both pieces. Tom has a pretty rusty car. My friend's car here
> >(Nevada) is very dry. Neither Tom nor I noted any rust at the interfaces
> that
> >resisted so much.
> > No consistency, and the repeatable experience that scientific method
> >requires seems of dubious universality. I'd like to see a definitive
> article
> >in United as well, but there's something going on here that hasn't quite
> been
> >deduced. I'd like to hear some others' experience.
> >
> > Chris Hill
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