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>
> Dear fellow listers,
>
> It is with great sadness that I announce that my '67 Alpine Series V is
for
> sale. I have come to a crossroads in my life, both personally and
> professionally, and I find that I can no longer afford the time or money
it
> will take to finish this car. I fully realize that I will not even come
> close to getting my money back out of the car but I have come to accept
> that and will take it as a lesson learned.
>
> The specs on the car are as follows:
>
> Year/model: 1967 Sunbeam Alpine Series V
> Serial #: B395006675
> SAL #: 605880
> Color code: 86
> Equipment: Factory hardtop, wire wheels, numbers-matching engine
>
> I bought the car in September of 1997 in Wichita, KS. I have traced the
> car back to an owner in Duncan, OK (southwestern Oklahoma) clear back
into
> the late 60's, but cannot determine if he was the original owner. I
drove
> the car for approximately one year and then began disassembling it for a
> total ground up in November, 1998.
>
> Body and chassis:
>
> To date, the bodywork has been completed. The car, although not totally
> eaten up, did have some rust in the usual places. I have a professional
> metal man here in my hometown who took the job of eradicating all the
rust.
> All rust repair was done with metal; my metal man doesn't believe in
great
> gobs of plastic, he builds street rods for a living and knows what he is
> doing. The pieces replaced are as follows:
>
> * Driver's side lower rear quarter in front of left rear wheel
> * Driver's side lower rear quarter behind left rear wheel
> * Passenger's side lower rear quarter behind right rear wheel
> * All four floor sections (left and right front floor pans & left and
right
> rear floor pans)
>
> All pieces were welded in; no pop rivets or any other Mickey Mouse stuff
> like that. We also had the trunk area, as well as the inside of the hood
> and deck lid, soda blasted. The previous owner had glued up some kind of
> insulation to the underside of these pieces and it was determined that
the
> best way to get the glue off was to blast it. The trunk area looks very
> nice now and has received a coat of vari-prime metal etching primer. My
> full intention was to build this car to last and that is how my metal man
> approached the job. There was no other rust on the body or chassis;
> everything else appears to be very solid.
>
> Engine/Transmission:
>
> The transmission shifted very smoothly and gave me no trouble while I was
> driving the car and, therefore, I had no plans to go through it. The
> engine, however, needed some attention. Myself, along with a
professional
> British car mechanic friend of mine in Oklahoma City, tore the engine
down
> and sent it to the machine shop. We left nothing to chance in the
rebuild.
> All parts were obtained from either Sunbeam Specialties or Classic
Sunbeam
> Auto Parts (kudos go to both Rick and Curt for their first class parts
and
> service). The comprehensive parts and service list is as follows:
>
> * Machine work
> * block tanked and cleaned inside and out
> * block bored .030 over and align bored to insure no crank whip
> * crank turned to .010 under on both mains and rods
> * new cam bearings installed
> * rods and pistons statically balanced
> * New parts:
> * Pistons .030
> * Rod bearings .010
> * Main bearings .010
> * Cam bearings
> * Camshaft (stock grind) and end plug
> * Cam timing gear
> * Crank timing gear
> * Timing chain
> * Tensioner blade
> * Rubber tensioner
> * Thrust washers std.
> * Oil pump
> * Gasket kits, both head and conversion sets
> * Front and rear rocker shafts
> * Valve lifters (full set)
> * Freeze plugs
>
> The block was given a light coat of primer and then painted black, along
> with all the pieces that bolt to it, ie. timing cover, oil pan, etc. The
> bottom end of the engine is now fully assembled and ready to go. The
head
> is still at the machine shop getting the valves done but they report that
> the spring tension is still good. As soon as the valves are ground, we
> will install the head so the motor can be buttoned up.
>
> Electrical system:
>
> The wiring harness had been into by the previous owner so much that I
> pulled it completely out of the car and got a brand new one from British
> Wiring, Inc. The harness looks perfect! If any of you have ever dealt
> with these people, you know about the quality of their products. I also
> have a new fuse box for the car. The charging system was operating just
> fine when the car was disassembled so that is all that I have obtained
for
> the electrical system.
>
> Cooling/heating systems:
>
> While driving the car, it was running a little warmer than I wanted it
to.
> Although it never overheated on me, I went ahead and replaced the
radiator
> with a new unit. That took care of the situation. I also replaced the
old
> rusty heater core with a new aluminum unit from Dale Akezewski (sp) of
> Tiger fame. All hoses, as well as the temperature sending unit, were
> replaced at this time.
>
> Other items:
>
> I had the hardtop blasted with aluminum oxide pellets and then put in
> vari-prime. Any rusty areas we found were repaired with metal at that
> time. I have new top-to-body lower sealing rubber for the hardtop and I
> also have the stainless steel pieces that go around the rear window, all
> except for the two small clips that are available from Sunbeam
Specialties.
>
>
> The car still has the majority of it's green paint on it and it appears
> that it will take a good blocking down, sealing and priming before it can
> be painted. How far one take's this process is up to the buyer. All the
> bodywork is done, however.
>
> I'm sure I'm forgeting some things that I've done to the car but I tried
to
> be as thorough as possible in the description. Please feel free to
e-mail
> me with questions. I can, of course, supply pictures to any interested
> party. All parts and service receipts, notes, drawings I have made of
> electrical bits will go with the car. By the way, one important thing to
> note is that ALL PARTS THAT WERE REMOVED FROM THE CAR WERE BAGGED AND
> MARKED WHEN POSSIBLE. Obviously, one can't bag grille pieces or things
> like that, but all small parts were bagged and marked for ease of
> reassembly.
>
> Guys, I am negotiable on price. I have a ton invested in it already but
I
> know I will not be able to recoup all that. The car will be sold as is.
> However, it will not be parted out, so please don't even ask. The car is
> too nice and solid a car to be doing that to. It deserves a good home.
>
> I also have a trailer that I am interested in selling that was set up to
> pull a Sunbeam. It is a 17', tandem axle unit with electric brakes and
has
> an equalizer hitch set-up. It has a wooden floor and comes with all tie
> downs and other trailer-necessary gadgets. The most unique aspect to
this
> trailer is that is is a convertible! Yes, it has a removable cover with
> metal tubed top bows that were built just right to fit over a Sunbeam.
It
> is only two years old and shows very little wear, although it does sit
> outside. I keep the roof stored in the house so it is in perfect
> condition. The trailer has been used twice since I bought it, both times
> to haul my Tiger Mk1A to out-of-town car shows. I have sold my truck and
> now have nothing to pull it with so I don't need it anymore. The price
on
> the trailer is $1500.00. Just the top alone cost me $1200.00!
>
> I'm not getting out of Sunbeams all together; I still have my Tiger and
> intend to keep it. But I just can't afford the time and money it is
going
> to take to finish the Alpine. I sincerely hope someone on the list can
end
> up with this car. It will make a nice one!
>
> Please contact me with any questions,
> Andy Walker
> (405) 348-7654 or via e-mail
>
>
>
>
>
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