Theo and Rick you said,
<When I had my rad recored, I drilled a hole in each tank, one below the
header tank transfer hose connection, and the other one about 2" above the
outlet hose connection (What? Of course it interferes with the shroud
mounting. I wasn't thinking).>
Hey Theo could this crack in your oil line be the drop in oil pressure that
you have been experiencing at the gauge.
In response to Rick's Question,
<How would one go about or What is the best way to measure the temperature
drop across a radiator?>
WARNING!!!
I am about to say the "C" word and refer to NON SUNBEAM informational
material. Those of you who take offence to the use of this type of language
on the "TIGER ONLY" list close your eyes now. If you proceed...you do so at
risk of forgoing the opportunity to chastise or Flame me for attempting to
offer constructive comments to one of our fellow hobby purists.
Generally I like to be a helpful person!
OK, Back when we used to race our "Camero" (OK, there it is.... those of you
not reading can now open your eyes and begin reading again) in Calgary we
had an opportunity to have our Race Car read by some type of temperature
sensing camera. Theo, you may remember this guy out at Race City as he
offered to "scan" peoples cars to measure surface temperature. This was a
pretty cool thing as it had several levels of sensitivity ranges. What he
would do is use a video camera type device that "pictured" the car such that
when viewed on a monitor you could see the different colour ranges that
represented different temperatures of different components.
The application for this was to scan building externally to identify heat
loss through window units in High rise buildings to conserve energy by
fixing areas where the most heat leaked out.
Anyway we "read" our car measuring surface temperatures of Tires, Brakes as
well as ... you guessed it...the rad. What we found was that fully 1/3 of
the rad did not even appear to be used as it was significantly cooler that
the inlet and outlet. You could clearly identify the actual path the water
was taking through the rad. This was where we found that back pressure (read
Thermostat or flow restrictor) is important to keep coolant in the airstream
and against the cast iron surfaces longer. When we did it ("read" the car)
we decided that the factory "GM" (sorry to offend those that are
hyper-Beamer fanatics, as that use of non Beamer info was without warning)
rad was inadequate as it seemed to send the coolant across the rad in a
wedge pattern and did not evenly use the entire surface available. We were
then convinced to upgrade to a racing piece (Manufactured by Guyon Racing in
Calgary AB)that directed the coolant back and forth across the rad surface
more times using more of the rad surface as a cooling surface.
This note was intended to suggest a quick way of very accurately measuring
inlet, outlet, centre, upper, lower, left, right .... or whatever of coolant
in the rad without gauges while the car is running. I hope it gives you an
alternative to installing gauges.
Best regards all,
Tim Ronak
B382000680
PS: I would never have seen this cool technology if I had only worked on and
talked about Sunbeams all of the time.
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