Larry,
When I did the underside of my Tiger, I used a 1000 watt hair blower
to soften the mess and then scraped it with a putty knife and flat
blade screwdriver for the tight spots. Worked real good. What remains
can be remover with a rag soaked with paint thinner.
It's still a hard job especially if your on your back. If you jacking
points are solid, with two engine stands and $20 worth of scrap metal
you can build a rotisserie. That's what I did.
Jim
Wright, Larry wrote:
>
> "Underneath"; installment #1
>
> Finally started on the underside of the Tiger this weekend, but
> not for very long due to other obligations. I began with my least
> favorite process, putting the car on jackstands. Right now, they hold
> the car at the end f the front lower A-arms and the rear axle, as the
> suspension is still on the car. Later, I'll transfer the stands to under
> the "frame" so I can remove the suspension and I'll even be more wary.
> The warning labels on the jackstands basically say "put these in a
> corner of your garage and never use them, or you will die"; and I
> believe them. I could re-apply the funds we've set aside for our
> hot-tub, buy a lift for the garage, but then I'd die anyway when Susan
> found out. :-)
> Well, I have not yet found a hub puller for sale, I tried a
> bunch of places Saturday; I have one more lead to follow then I'll
> consider renting. Ugh. In the meanwhile, I tried my hand at removing all
> of the undercoating from the car. I bought a bunch of various scrapers
> from Home Depot, I particularly liked the Sandvik woodworking scraper of
> the bear-down-and-pull type with the replaceable blades. I figured about
> one hour sessions under there is about all my arms and neck will take.
> Result: one square foot of the trunk floor, about the flattest, easiest
> part of the car, is down to primer with some bare metal showing through.
> Great, I'll be all ready for SUNI VII in Mexico City at this rate. BTW,
> It appears that the original paint, BRG, continued under the car to a
> point about 6-8 inches forward of the vertical seam under the valence,
> if anyone keeps track of such things.
> What are my alternatives? I haven't tried a wire wheel on a
> drill yet, but I'd guess the wheel would load up in nanoseconds. What
> about chemicals? My favorite method of removing paint, although I've
> never used it in an overhead situation before (no, ain't no way I'm
> tipping the car); I'd have to brush it on at arms length to prevent it
> dripping back on my face, I'm wearing goggles but I'm not sure I'd trust
> them to provide a 100% barrier. I went down to my basement, found a 1/2
> full gallon container of stripper (aircraft coating remover, worked
> great on pulling the paint off the topside of the car), but it had
> turned to a waxy semi-solid over the years. Before I go out and buy more
> of this expensive stuff, has anyone had luck removing undercoating with
> it? I have a small belt sander, could put some 50-grit on it, but I
> think that would load up faster than the wire wheel.
> Guests arrived, preventing my getting back under there (thank
> goodness!), but I should have started soaking all of the bolts that hold
> the suspension on with WD-40. Perhaps a week of doing that daily could
> ease removing all of those bolts. I was looking at Hemmings late last
> night, comparison shopping on POR-15 to coat the underside. Hey, they
> have black and silver (and clear) available. Gee, the silver would make
> the underside brighter when I need to work under there, but would it
> look funny in the wheel wells?
> Oh; for our homebrewing Lister looking for Sunbeam-related names
> for beer, how about Lucas Porter for a dark beer? A _very_ dark beer.
>
>
> Lawrence R. Wright
> Purchasing Analyst
> Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
> lrw@aop.com
> Ph. 301.386.7923 Fx. 301.386.5333
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