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Alleged vapor lock?Try the pump overheated? Why venture this guess?  My
old tow vehicle was 79 Chevy van the "L.B.1" ( Lust Bus 1). For what ever
reason the mechanical fuel pump failed a number of times at the most
inconvenient time!  To fix this I installed an AC Marine type tick-tick pump
inline.  What I experienced with this set up was while towing the race
trailer in the Florida keys the electric pump overheated!  The
electromagnetic coil got so hot , it did not properly do it's tick-tick with
the gusto the designers intended.  The pump was getting hot. No not
excessive resistance , ambient temperature combined with the pumps "working "
temperature. Replacing the pump with a new one proved that.  What I am
suspecting is your pump got hot and decided electrically to stop pumping. In
a vapor lock state an electric pump should stay pumping against a vapor lock
yielding the pump sounding like the pump after it starts up and then builds
pressure and the pump starts running against the built up pressure. Even my
tick-tick pump ran.ChuckJust a thought on what or why?Sent from my LG
Mobile------ Original message------From: Tim Collins via SpridgetsDate: Sat,
Jul 4, 2020 8:40 AMTo: Spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] My car didn't start
either - different reason.Hi guys,Vapor LockI was out for a ride yesterday in
my 1966 Sprite to view damage caused by the failure of two dams in my
community. This meant driving through subdivisions at low speed. Also, I
stopped for about 10 minutes (engine off) to talk to an acquaintance about
damage to his home. I had a little trouble restarting the car, but it did
start. On the way home I stalled the engine at a stop light on a 4 lane artery
(with center turn lane) and it wouldn't restart. Fortunately, traffic was light
and I had an opportunity to push the car into the service drive of a strip
mall. There happened to be a tree/shade at the entrance so I stopped there and
opened the hood and waited for the car to cool. (I suspected vapor lock.)The
(new) fuel pump (Airtex E88016E) wasn't "tick - ticking", but I attributed that
to the plunger not being able to trigger the electronics because of the fuel
lock. I reminded myself that banging on the pump wouldn't work because there
are no mechanical points in this pump. The air temp was near 90 deg. and I was
parked on an asphalt lot - it was hot! I found my way home with the help of a
good Samaritan. (I'm one of the last people in the world not to own a cell
phone) Several hours later I went back with my wife - the Sprite still wouldn't
start. I called a flatbed tow truck ($70 - about a 3 mile haul ) and got the
car home. At home I turned the key and heard the familiar tick, tick. Shortly
thereafter, I tried starting the car. After a few tries things got cleared out
and it started. TroubleshootingThe fuel in the tank is from last Fall (could
have been a Winter blend) Shell V-Power NiTRO+ Premium. Probably too volatile
for this heat. A fill up with Summer blend should help greatly. This is my #1
suspect for the cause of the problem.I suspect that the vapor lock occurred
either: 1) in the fuel bowls, 2) or in the fuel filter (WIX 33031, metal can
type), 3) or in the fuel line connecting the carbs (low chance) 4) or some
combination of these. The fuel pump is in a "cool" (factory) location so not a
suspect. Fuel lines from the tank to carbs are in factory locations - away from
the exhaust pipe.The fuel filter is about the size of the float bowl on the SU
carbs. I'm wondering if the size is too large thus allowing heat soak while the
fuel spends too much time in the filter? What do you think?I should have walked
to the grocery store in the strip mall and bought a gallon of water to try and
cool the float bowls and fuel filter. Anyone had any success doing this?Your
thoughts??ps: Someone stopped and said I needed a clothes pin on the fuel line.
Evidently some people believe in that as a fix. I can't imagine any science
behind doing that.
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<div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Alleged vapor lock?</div><div
dir="auto">Try the pump overheated? Why venture this guess?
My old tow vehicle was 79 Chevy van the "L.B.1" ( Lust Bus 1). For what
ever reason the mechanical fuel pump failed a number of times at the most
inconvenient time! To fix this I installed an AC Marine type
tick-tick pump inline. What I experienced with this set up was
while towing the race trailer in the Florida keys the electric pump
overheated! The electromagnetic coil got so hot , it did not
properly do it's tick-tick with the gusto the designers intended.
The pump was getting hot. No not excessive resistance , ambient
temperature combined with the pumps "working " temperature. Replacing the pump
with a new one proved that. </div><div dir="auto">What I am
suspecting is your pump got hot and decided electrically to stop pumping.
In a vapor lock state an electric pump should stay pumping against a vapor lock
yielding the pump sounding like the pump after it starts up and then builds
pressure and the pump starts running against the built up pressure. Even
my tick-tick pump ran.</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div dir="auto">Just a
thought on what or why?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div
dir="auto"><br></div><div><div dir="auto" style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from
my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div
id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------
Original message------</div><div dir="auto"><b>From: </b>Tim Collins via
Spridgets<spridgets@autox.team.net></spridgets@autox.team.net></div><div
dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Sat, Jul 4, 2020 8:40 AM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To:
</b>Spridgets;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b></div><div
dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>[Spridgets] My car didn't start either - different
reason.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><div dir="ltr"><div
class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">Hi guys,</div><div
class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large">Vapor Lock<br>I was out for a
ride yesterday in my 1966 Sprite to view damage caused by the failure of two
dams in my community. This meant driving through subdivisions at low speed.
Also, I stopped for about 10 minutes (engine off) to talk to an acquaintance
about damage to his home. I had a little trouble restarting the car, but it did
start. <br><br>On the way home I stalled the engine at a stop light on a 4 lane
artery (with center turn lane) and it wouldn't restart. Fortunately, traffic
was light and I had an opportunity to push the car into the service drive of a
strip mall. There happened to be a tree/shade at the entrance so I stopped
there and opened the hood and waited for the car to cool. (I suspected vapor
lock.)<br><br>The (new) fuel pump (Airtex E88016E) wasn't "tick - ticking", but
I attributed that to the plunger not being able to trigger the electronics
because of the fuel lock. I reminded myself that banging on the pump wouldn't
work because there are no mechanical points in this pump. <br><br>The air temp
was near 90 deg. and I was parked on an asphalt lot - it was hot! I found my
way home with the help of a good Samaritan. (I'm one of the last people in the
world not to own a cell phone) Several hours later I went back with my wife -
the Sprite still wouldn't start. I called a flatbed tow truck ($70 - about a 3
mile haul ) and got the car home. At home I turned the key and heard the
familiar tick, tick. Shortly thereafter, I tried starting the car. After a few
tries things got cleared out and it started. <br><br>Troubleshooting<br>The
fuel in the tank is from last Fall (could have been a Winter blend) Shell
V-Power NiTRO+ Premium. Probably too volatile for this heat. A fill up with
Summer blend should help greatly. This is my #1 suspect for the cause of the
problem.<br><br>I suspect that the vapor lock occurred either: 1) in the fuel
bowls, 2) or in the fuel filter (WIX 33031, metal can type), 3) or in the fuel
line connecting the carbs (low chance) 4) or some combination of these. The
fuel pump is in a "cool" (factory) location so not a suspect. Fuel lines from
the tank to carbs are in factory locations - away from the exhaust
pipe.<br><br>The fuel filter is about the size of the float bowl on the SU
carbs. I'm wondering if the size is too large thus allowing heat soak while the
fuel spends too much time in the filter? What do you think?<br><br>I should
have walked to the grocery store in the strip mall and bought a gallon of water
to try and cool the float bowls and fuel filter. Anyone had any success doing
this?<br><br>Your thoughts??</div><div class="gmail_default"
style="font-size:large"><br></div><div class="gmail_default"
style="font-size:large">ps: Someone stopped and said I needed a clothes pin on
the fuel line. Evidently some people believe in that as a fix. I can't imagine
any science behind doing that.<br><br><br><br><br><br></div><div
class="gmail_default" style="font-size:large"><br></div></div>
</div>
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