My bypass is blocked and I have a thermostat. Never runs over 190 to 200
degrees in Southern California.
Mike MacLean
60 Sprite
56 BN2
--- On Tue, 3/26/13, Dean Hedin <dlh2001@comcast.net> wrote:
From: Dean Hedin <dlh2001@comcast.net>
Subject: [Spridgets] Blanking sleeve and blocked bypass again...
To: "'Spridgets'" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 26, 2013, 12:46 AM
As you recall, fronm the "Special Tunning for Sprites and Midgets"..
"Assuming the thermostat is working correctly, overheating can result if it
is removed without fitting a blanking sleeve 11G 176 in it's place.
Alternatively, the bypass connection between the cylinder head and water
pump may be sealed on 'A' series engines."
I've thought it over. The above statement is true.
If you block the bypass then you don't need the blanking sleeve (and no
thermostat).
The only purpose of the blanking sleeve is to obstruct the flow to the
bypass.
Here's my justifiction.
In the normal case, in a warmed up engine, the water pump is pushing water
into the block up through the head through the OPENED thermostat and then
the water expells out the thermostat housing into the top of the radiator.
Water from the bottom of the radiator feeds the water pump
But when the engine is cold the thermostat is closed, so no water enters the
top of the radiator. In this case the water comes from the head via the
bypass. It a little "sub loop" until the head warms up enough to open the
thermostat.
The important thing is this. If you block the bypass then you must remove
the thermostat!
Which means I gotta go pull my thermostat out!
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