Have him look for wear at all of the pivot points. The hole in the pedal,
the clevis pin between the pedal and the master push rod, the hole in the
push rod, the hole in the slave push rod, the clevis pin at the throw out
lever, and the hole in the throw out lever. As the holes oval out, and the
clevis pins wear out, their combined wear will result in a clutch that won't
be able to fully disengage due to the extra slop in the system.
Also, there is a flex line between the frame rail and the slave cylinder.
Old ones are subject to ballooning under hydraulic pressure. Replace any
flex line in question, even if it looks fine.
David R.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deikis, John G" <John.Deikis@va.gov>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 1:51 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch won't disengage completely
>I sold my yellow Frankensprite to my brother-in-law. The clutch has now
> started to drag. Says he has a hard time getting it into gear and the
> gears grind. He has bled the hydraulics thoroughly and swears there are
> NO bubbles coming out of the bleeder-just clean fluid. He has replaced
> the master and slave cylinders. He's about ready to pull the motor and
> eyeball the clutch thinking maybe it could be the throw-out bearing. Any
> ideas?
>
> JohnD
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