Cyrille:
Don't have experience with your particular engine, but let me
suggest some generic things to look at:
1. Make sure that you cam is installed correctly. To do this:
a. Pull the spark plugs
b. Remove the valve cover
c. Rotate the engine by hand to the 0 mark on your crank
pulley. Watch the valves on the
number 1 cylinder to make sure both valves are FULLY
closed at 0 degrees (TDC on the
compression stroke).
d. Look at the valves on the #4 cylinder. They should
BOTH BE EQUALLY OPEN (or closed),
(TDC on the EXHAUST STROKE). The point here is that there
be no visible difference in
the positions of the intake and exhaust valves on the #4
cylinder.
2. If the test in number 1 fails, check your timing marks on the
crank pulley:
a. Insert a screw driver into the number 1 spark plug
hole.
b. Rock the crank back and forth while feeling the
piston. The piston should be at TDC when your
crank pulley reads 0 degrees. If not, your pulley timing
marks are off. You will need to replace or
rebuild your pulley.
c. If the timing marks are correct, your cam is
mis-installed, and you will need to open your
motor and retime your cam.
3. If #1 and #2 both pass, you probably are setting your
ignition timing incorrectly. Make sure you are
setting the timing with any vacuum lines to the dizzy connected
as per the shop manual
*AND*
That your vacuum capsules (if any) on the dizzy are *fully*
functional and *not* leaking. Vacuum capsules have
an internal rubber diaphragm that fails after a while. So even
if they are connected, they may
be inoperative, in which case your timing will be waaaaay off.
Ask me how I know.
Normally overheating is caused by the timing being retarded,
since if the timing is too advanced the engine will not start and will
backfire. 40 degrees advanced to get the engine to run means something
is SERIOUSLY out of sync, and may well mean an error during the assembly
process. It implies that when set to the recommended 10 BTDC setting, it
is retarded by at least 30 degrees. A vacuum capsule can supply 20
degrees or more of timing, so if a capsule is mistakenly (dis)connected
or dead your timing can be off by that much.
Keep us posted,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of de Brebisson,
Cyrille (Calculator Division)
Sent: March 30, 2006 6:58 PM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: It started, but I am having issues..... HELP!!!!!
Hello,
Well, the engine 1500cc is back in the car and I started it today...
The first thing that I noticed was that heat was generating WAY fast (in
fact, despite wanting to run it for 20 minutes on the first run as
needed for the new cam, I stopped at 15 due to the niddle hitting the
red line in temperature)...
The main reason for the overheating, I think is the advance, namely
around 40 degree before!!!
The problem, is that if I put the timing back to 10 degree were it
should be (roughtly), the engine stops and will not start...
So, any ideas of what could be going wrong? Where to check? I am at
lost....
Thanks, cyrille
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