you are correct about the GM over the counter "shorter" plunger spring.
i have 2 of the factory springs here. it was a seperate part number piece
i got when i last worked as a parts man. last i knew that "short" (and
slightly lighter wire diameter too!) spring was listed under GM's
performance parts listing. it was an old trick to stand your collection of
solenod plunger springs on end and always pick the "shortest" spring when
building starters for what was then referred to as a "high torque" starter.
funny as it had nothing to do with the length of the armature or fields
wich "could" effect actual torque. before the light weight racing
starters became available comercially another trick if space allowed was
using a diesel starter field coil housing and armature on a standard nose
for high torque with a hard to start (lots of advance dialed in!) GM V8.
those starters weigh a small ton but would crank over in hot start
situations when lots of compression and advance were effecting a standard
starter's ability to spin a motor fast enough to catch and run. ;)
thank you all for your collective input!
chuck.
now, about getting an old saab to go faster.......LOL!
>
> I found an easier way. There was a change up in the return spring of the
> solenoid that GM inserted in an on the go fix. But I also used the case
and
> field coils from a 455 cid Oldsmobile which was an immediate fix. I would
> go to my parts store, buy the Olds starter, change the nose to the one for
> the Chev (because it is on the other side of the motor) and install it. I
> would then put the core back together using the Olds nose piece to recover
> my core charge.
> Jim
|