Thank you everyone for the good info, and thank you Gerard for the offer
of a resleeved spare cylinder. I may eventually take you up on that, but
I do have a second cylinder for parts so I will try to complete a good
one. I did manage to gouge the hollow shaft while removing the nylon
washer, so that is the first part I will need. Is it possible the nylon
absorbs enough moisture to make it swell in the bore? I don't have
enough left to take a measurement.
John
Gerard wrote:
> This usually requires a modified set of very long and narrow needle
> nose pliers. The important thing is not to score the inside of the
> bore while removing the clip. The is not an area that can be sleeved,
> Rebuilding these is not for the faint-hearted or the weekend mechanic
> (in my opinion). It's best to have the bore sleeved and if the pushrod
> portion of the piston is not perfectly smooth and highly polished, kit
> will leak through your front seal anyway. From my experience, that
> usually ius damaged by the time you get that nylon washer removed.
> I've done over a dozen of these so I know the drill.
>
> I have sleeved rebuilt spares if you find you don't have a viable one.
>
> Gerard
>
> At 9:13 AM -0400 10/27/04, John Caffrey wrote:
>
>> This is my first occasion to work on a late model master cylinder,
>> and so far I'd have to say it's one of the more difficult Spridget
>> tasks. I had to destroy the nylon washer to extract it from the bore,
>> and I am having trouble removing the second snap ring that's down in
>> the bore. I have three different internal pliers, the HD one is too
>> big to fit in, and the smaller ones are too short. I made two sets of
>> longer tips to work with my tools and still there is no joy. I've
>> just started my search, McMaster Carr has two pages of retaining ring
>> pliers but there is nothing there that will work. With all of the
>> restoration experience here I know you've dealt with the same
>> problem. Can anyone recommend a specific tool brand to search?
>> Thanks,
>> John
>> 67 MG Midget
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