I recall some research I did on this years ago, so I don't remember the source.
But as I understand it, the likelihood of corrosion between dissimilar metals is
related to the galvanic action between the metals. Some chemist out there can
correct this, but the galvanic flow is itself governed by specific gravity or
atomic weight or something. Anyway, the comparison showed only a nominal
difference between aluminum and mild steel, suggesting that corrosion likelihood
would be low. Suprisingly, the same analysis showed the galvanic difference
between stainless and mild steel to be quite high! Part of the conclusion was
that
cadmium plated fasteners would be more corrosion resistant than stainless ones.
I
know of several LBC owner/resorers who have fastidiously replaced all the
fasteners
with marine grade stainless steel, and show as proof of success that they don't
rust the nearby panels. But then, those cars don't get exposed to many harsh
conditions, either.
JJ
Bryan Vandiver wrote:
> Aluminum is much easier to machine and work with.
>
> - Bryan
>
> >To: "Bryan Vandiver" <Bryan.Vandiver@eng.sun.com>,
><spridgets@autox.team.net>,
> <RBHouston@aol.com>
> >Subject: RE: Rear Springs
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
> >X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> >X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.3018.1300
> >Importance: Normal
> >
> >I always thought it was a bad idea to mix metals (steel and aluminum) as it
> >accelerated corrosion? Is there a reason not to make the wedges of steel?
> >
> >Tom Zuchowski
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
> >> [mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bryan Vandiver
> >> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 12:59 PM
> >> To: spridgets@autox.team.net; RBHouston@aol.com
> >> Subject: Re: Rear Springs
> >>
> >>
> >> I have a set of VB 10-leaf 1/4 springs on my bugeye, that I
> >> bought about 4 or
> >> 5-years ago. They are definitely 'over sprung'. If I'm driving
> >> the car solo, the
> >> ride is definitely quite 'bouncy, and it is quite disconcerting
> >> when hitting a
> >> bump while cornering, and the whole car 'jumps' 6-12 inches to
> >> the out side,
> >> because the rear left the ground. It also looks like they lifted
> >> the car 1-1.5"
> >> in the rear.
> >> I am planning to recondition my original rear springs, and try
> >> them, to see how
> >> much they would improve the ride, since they appear to be much 'softer'.
> >>
> >> As a side note, I've been trying to come up with a good method to
> >> 'lower' the
> >> back end of 1/4 elliptical spring cars, without having to do
> >> major mods to the
> >> springs or body. I've talked with my brother who is a machinist
> >> about making
> >> some wedge shaped plates out of aluminum, that would neatly fit
> >> under the spring
> >> and change the angle enough to lower the car 1-2", using all the original
> >> mounting HW. Does this sound like it would be of interest to
> >> other people out
> >> there??? If there is enough interest, I can have him make up a
> >> 'lowering kit'
> >> which he can offer to list members.
> >>
> >> - Bryan Vandiver
> >> San Jose, CA
> >>
> >>
> >> >Subject: Rear Springs
> >> >To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> >> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >> >
> >> >As the new guy on the list was just asking, I thought I'd take
> >> another stab
> >> >at my questions about the repro springs offered from the usual suspects.
> >> >
> >> >Don't they set the car's rear about an inch higher? Or did I
> >> dream that.
> >> >Does anyone have a set they hate and want to get rid of? Or am
> >> I better off
> >> >taking the old ones to be rear arched.?
> >> >
> >> >RH
> >>
> >>
> >
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