Tyson,
Having the slave cylinder in will make no difference to shifting
unless the trans is under stress (on a slope with no emergengy brake
etc.). Have you tried removing the shift lever assembly (three bolts
around the base of the shifter) and seeing if you can put a big
screwdriver in the fork arm hole and move the forks. Centered should be
neutral. If you cannot get the forks to move the trans needs to come
out. If you are going to buy a used trans try to find one in a running
car that you can test for noise in first gear. Pops out of first, pops
out of reverse, Pops out of second(gears worn), grinds when shifting to
second third or fourth(syncros worn). If you cannot get one from in a
car at least pull the drain plug and look for bits of metal in the
plug(small amount of brass material is normal(synchros are made of some
type of brass coloured metal).
Regards,
Peter
'59 Bugeye
'71 Midget
'70 MGB
>Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 20:07:57 -0500
>From: Tyson Sherman <tsherman@tecinfo.com>
>To: Spridget mailing list <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
>Subject: Transmission problem
>Reply-To: Tyson Sherman <tsherman@tecinfo.com>
>
>I finally got around to reconnecting the transmission on my 72 Midget
>(the rough one). The driveshaft was removed, but now it's back
>together. I don't have a slave cylinder either (removed). I have it,
>but it's beyond repair. The transmission is stuck in reverse, but
>rowing the lever doesn't seem to help as it doesn't feel like a regular
>transmission lever (I can't find any gears); and it's nothing like
>moving the lever in my 76 B or 74.5 GT.
>
>The starter turns the engine, but it also rolls the car in reverse.
>What would cause the tranny to be stuck, and do you think that getting
>the slave cylinder back on would help since the shift lever feels so
>bad. I have a local parts source for used transmissions if need be. Is
>that the way to go?
>
>--
>Tyson Sherman
>http://www.tecinfo.com/~tsherman
>
>
>
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