> I forgot to mention that I dismantled and reassembled the turn
> signal switch. It looked OK. How would I test it - check for
> zero resistance through it?
I am not sure how the later turn signal switch is constructed, but the
earlier one has three wires- one is power, which feeds from the "out" side
of the flasher, and two are supply to the lamp sides. You basically
disconnect all three wires, and, upon determining which is power in, connect
an ohm meter across the two connections- one to the power in lead, one to
the power supply for either side. Then click the switch into position.
Change power(out) supply lead to the other one, and again, check for
continuity by switching the lever to that side.
> I am also getting the test lamp to light on both sides of the
> flasher unit so I'm thinking it's OK. It's "upstream" of the
> turn signal switch so if it was bad I wouldn't get current at
> the switch, or would I??? I was a little surprised that the test
> lamp didn't flash on and off at the one terminal on the flasher,
> but I put that down to insufficient current draw to activate the
> flashing. I have no idea if that is a reasonable assumption.
That could well be insufficient current draw. Take a spare bulb and tape
some leads to it(or solder them if you're of a mind), and connect it in
place. It should draw enough power to heat the bimetallic element which
causes the flash. If you have the three prong Lucas jobbie, one goes only to
the indicator light- and if this wire is switched with the power out wire,
nothing will flash.
>
> >These would be your two best first guess items, before you run yourself
to
> >ground over a wiring issue.
> >
> >Scott
> >PS- Did I mention "Pun Intended"? ;)
>
> Ouch! Wire you doing this to us? ;-)
You can't return my puns- I'm insulated against their shocking
effects.(That's my short answer anyway.)
Scott
/// spitfires@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|