That wasn't a problem in my case, since the head shaving and block decking that
was done on my engine compensates for the shorter
shuds. Something to think of in building a high performance engine. When you
change these things, they affect more than just that
part.
Another case is adding larger valves and cutting away the inside of the
combustion chamber will make the valve stem stick out more and
therefore make the valve springs to loose and require shimming to compensate.
Regards,
Joe
"Graziano, Michael" wrote:
>
> Just a note on the ARP studs. I bought them when I recently did my engine
> rebuild, but didn't use them. THey are 3/8" too short. There are about 4
> people on the Spridget list who have encountered this as well. Dave at APT
> has a fix that included lock tite, but I decided to use new standard studs
> instead. He's confident his lock-tite method would be fine. I assume he's
> done it in the past and not had problems. BUT, I'm returning the ARP studs
> tomorrow i.e. they go in the mail tomorrow. If anyone wants them, email me
> today and I'd be happy to sell them to you for my cost of $60 plus shipping
> to you. The ARP part number of the kit is 206-4203 and includes
> instructions, nuts, washers, studs, and assembly lube.
>
> No financial interest as the store already agreed to take them back. But I
> thought I'd offer my input.
>
> Has anyone else encountered this problem?
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist@gte.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 1:56 AM
> To: John Weber
> Cc: Spitfire (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: cylinder head
>
> Yes, I recommend torqueing the head before starting it up and immediately
> after the engine warms up (before it cools off). You will be
> surprised how loose the nuts get when it warms up.
>
> I don't know about going with a higher torque specification. I would not
> recommend it if you are using the old head studs. However,
> ARP head studs are supposed to be torqued to 50 pounds. So, I guess it
> depends on the particulars of what you are using. One note,
> Kas Kastner's competition manual recommended using thicker nuts on the head
> studs and then torque it to 60 pounds. Of course, it is on
> competition prepared engines that will rev upwards of 7000 rpm.
>
> Regards,
> Joe
>
> John Weber wrote:
> >
> > Joe, et al:
> >
> > Yesterday, when I dropped my head off for rebuild, the mechanic reminded
> me
> > to torque the head immediately after the engine warms up...and to do it
> > again at about 500 miles. This agrees with this list, plus agreeing with
> > the Haynes book in the engine rebuild section.
> >
> > They also said to torque it to 50 vice 46. Any thoughts on this? I was
> > under the impression that too much torque was not good.
> >
> > And on another note, I remember a thread where the little pieces of wood
> for
> > the front? plate were needed. BPNW includes them in their engine gasket
> > kit. NFI on my end. Just noted that they were in the kit when I unboxed
> it
> > the other day.
> >
> > John
> > '75 Spit
>
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