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He really, /really/ hates lockwashers. I've been a threadlocker devotee
since reading his book, but have to say I've had a couple instances
where only a sturdy split washer did the job (usually with a bolt in shear).
On 11/17/2020 7:39 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:
> For questions like this I look to Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts,
> Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" commonly referred to as "Screw to
> Win."Â He says that your picture 2 is the preferred way, but picture 1
> is an alternate method. He says:
>
> "Insert the pin and give the closed end a tap with a drift to seat
> it. Bend the ends over, one over the top of the bolt and the other
> axially against one flat of the nut. If you can wiggle the cotter pin
> with your fingers, you did it wrong."
>
> At 12:36 PM 11/17/2020, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>>
>> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
>> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>>
>> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
>> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
>> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
>> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a
>> Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually,
>> it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub
>> axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is
>> that the best way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a
>> cotter in and secure it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from
>> coming completely undone. However, when safety-wiring--a skill I
>> sorta learned maintaining my own aircraft--you're supposed to always
>> wire so as to pull in the tightening direction, to resist any turning
>> at all of the nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated
>> nuts--I torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing#
>> 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter
>> from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to
>> resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of the
>> cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at the edge
>> of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't doing anything
>> (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to remove if
>> necessary).
>>
>> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
>> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
>> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>>
>> Bob
>
>
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He really, <i>really</i> hates lockwashers. I've been a
threadlocker devotee since reading his book, but have to say I've
had a couple instances where only a sturdy split washer did the job
(usually with a bolt in shear).<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/17/2020 7:39 PM, Steven Trovato
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:B0.C0.27477.60894BF5@mta2.srv.hcvlny.cv.net">For
questions like this I look to Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts,
Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" commonly referred to as "Screw to
Win."Â He says that your picture 2 is the preferred way, but
picture 1 is an alternate method. He says:
<br>
<br>
"Insert the pin and give the closed end a tap with a drift to seat
it. Bend the ends over, one over the top of the bolt and the
other axially against one flat of the nut. If you can wiggle the
cotter pin with your fingers, you did it wrong."
<br>
<br>
At 12:36 PM 11/17/2020, Bob Spidell wrote:
<br>
<blockquote type="cite">Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<br>
<br>
Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and
I thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
<br>
<br>
What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin?
I've watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin
Garage, Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a
Crate Engine In It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On
It and Call It a Day' hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit
different. Usually, it's 'Type 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art'
attached (using a stub axle for example)--but I gave it a lot of
thought and wondered 'Is that the best way?' Thinking it
through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure it will do
the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining
my own aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in
the tightening direction, to resist any turning at all of the
nut/bolt. So, when applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I
torque until the cotter will just fit in the hole (drawing# 2),
situated 'sideways'--where you can't see the eye of the cotter
from the side--snug against the side of the nut's slot so as to
resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the upper half of
the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower half at
the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier
to remove if necessary).
<br>
<br>
FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
<br>
<br>
Bob
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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