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Re: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage

To: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cotter Usage
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2020 19:44:04 -0800
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <f0da9ea4-2f98-4d3e-d06b-a25b00ac7b13@comcast.net> <CANuE7YDZ+521pBjma6Z+D=AeWuxXdkODgzDoj_WB+uW7f08LmA@mail.gmail.com>
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Same goes for safety wiring; I learned the hard way you have to tuck the 
ends back where they can't reach out and rip your hands.

On 11/17/2020 9:59 AM, John Innis wrote:
> About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I was taught to do style 
> #2.  THe main reason is that someone will eventually need to reach 
> their hand into a tight spot past the cotter pin you have installed.  
> If you used style #2, you are much less likely to leave sharp edges 
> that will shred the hands of the next guy who has to work on this 
> thing.  I actually had an instructor who would look for stuff like 
> this and if she found that you left a sharp edge somewhere she would 
> deliberately run you hand across it in a way as to cause just enough 
> damage to get the point across.  Not a lesson I needed to have repeated.
>
> On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net 
>
>     Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
>     thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
>     What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
>     watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
>     Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
>     It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a
>     Day'
>     hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's
>     'Type
>     1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
>     example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the
>     best
>     way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and
>     secure
>     it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
>     However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining
>     my own
>     aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the
>     tightening
>     direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
>     applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
>     just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you
>     can't
>     see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
>     nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
>     upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the
>     lower
>     half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
>     doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
>     remove if necessary).
>
>     FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
>     psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
>     retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
>     Bob
>


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    Same goes for safety wiring; I learned the hard way you have to tuck
    the ends back where they can't reach out and rip your hands.<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/17/2020 9:59 AM, John Innis
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CANuE7YDZ+521pBjma6Z+D=AeWuxXdkODgzDoj_WB+uW7f08LmA@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">About 1000 years ago when I was in A&amp;P school I
        was taught to do style #2.  THe main reason is that someone will
        eventually need to reach their hand into a tight spot past the
        cotter pin you have installed.  If you used style #2, you are
        much less likely to leave sharp edges that will shred the hands
        of the next guy who has to work on this thing.  I actually had
        an instructor who would look for stuff like this and if she
        found that you left a sharp edge somewhere she would
        deliberately run you hand across it in a way as to cause just
        enough damage to get the point across.  Not a lesson I needed to
        have repeated.<br>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40
          AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
            moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Got
          some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
          <br>
          thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:<br>
          <br>
          What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin?
          I've <br>
          watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
          <br>
          Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate
          Engine In <br>
          It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call
          It a Day' <br>
          hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually,
          it's 'Type <br>
          1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle
          for <br>
          example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that
          the best <br>
          way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in
          and secure <br>
          it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely
          undone. <br>
          However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned
          maintaining my own <br>
          aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the
          tightening <br>
          direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So,
          when <br>
          applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the
          cotter will <br>
          just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where
          you can't <br>
          see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side
          of the <br>
          nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I
          bend the <br>
          upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip
          the lower <br>
          half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than
          that isn't <br>
          doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be
          easier to <br>
          remove if necessary).<br>
          <br>
          FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a
          few <br>
          psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the
          anal <br>
          retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was
          kidding.<br>
          <br>
          Bob<br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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