--===============6729879763369289987==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
--Apple-Mail-9B4F19B7-F668-48FB-9E57-7499DFB124FD
charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Planing the back side of the door is one possibility as is modifying the cab=
inet. I=E2=80=99d look @ modifying the wall. If it is drywall, you should be=
able to gain 1/2=E2=80=9D just by removing the drywall. Then plane down, sa=
w or replace the studs from the floor up to the track, then replace the dryw=
all. Since the drywall is mainly hidden by door & cabinet, & doesn=E2=80=99t=
have anything hanging on it. I=E2=80=98d consider 1/4 drywall or Masonite. O=
nly problem is how to make the other door & it=E2=80=99s wall look right.=20=
Please let us know how it turns out.=20
I love finding stuff @ the restore!
Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity
> On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:27 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team=
.net> wrote:
>=20
=EF=BB=BF
I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come up w=
ith a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to put up a=
pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a t=
all kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit int=
o a pocket. When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the c=
abinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to make o=
ut of tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has la=
tely decided that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wa=
nts to try something different. I wanted to install something temporary whi=
le she shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReSto=
re yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at=
least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really ni=
ce, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the h=
ouse. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that the=
y are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always d=
onate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.=20
There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by tweaki=
ng the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. I will t=
ry that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99=
t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow=
the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=
=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing t=
he entire width of the door. =20
(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8=
x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door open=
ing and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =20
I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to u=
se, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I would be h=
appy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. We are probabl=
y looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wif=
e happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. So, what do=
es the group think? Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of t=
hese doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another w=
ay? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, bu=
t they do have to be smooth and even.
As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
Jim
_______________________________________________
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve
as@icloud.com
--Apple-Mail-9B4F19B7-F668-48FB-9E57-7499DFB124FD
charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Planing the back side of the door is one po=
ssibility as is modifying the cabinet. I=E2=80=99d look @ modifying the wall=
. If it is drywall, you should be able to gain 1/2=E2=80=9D just by removing=
the drywall. Then plane down, saw or replace the studs from the floor up to=
the track, then replace the drywall. Since the drywall is mainly hidden by d=
oor & cabinet, & doesn=E2=80=99t have anything hanging on it. I=E2=80=
=98d consider 1/4 drywall or Masonite. Only problem is how to make the other=
door & it=E2=80=99s wall look right. <div><br></div><div>Please le=
t us know how it turns out. <br><div><br></div><div>I love finding stuf=
f @ the restore!<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne <div>We support Habi=
tat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote t=
ype=3D"cite">On Dec 22, 2019, at 8:27 AM, Jim Stone via Shop-talk <shop-t=
alk@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-=
8"><div class=3D"">I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled hous=
e and have come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with=
. I need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which=
will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocke=
t door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed t=
he kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possibl=
y shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99=
t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different. &nbs=
p;I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides and we=
went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if they had=
anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. =
To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style door=
s for $50 each that would look really good in the house. They are soli=
d wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D=
thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always donate them back=
if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work. </div><div class=
=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">There is a possibility that I mig=
ht be able to make the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the=
opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. I will try that, but doubt the wall t=
olerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option=
- besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. &nbs=
p;This <i class=3D"">should</i> be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=
=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing t=
he entire width of the door. </div><div class=3D"">(For what it is wor=
th, I should add here that while the doors are currently 8x30, I need to twe=
ak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door opening and will be cu=
tting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. </div><div class=3D=
""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I currently have a good bench top pl=
aner that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that=
might work. But, of course, I would be happy to buy a new one or anot=
her tool that would do the job. We are probably looking at more than $=
1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lot=
s of room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think?=
Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. &n=
bsp;Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another way? &nbs=
p;They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but t=
hey do have to be smooth and even.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div=
><div class=3D"">As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!=
</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Jim</div><span>__=
_____________________________________________</span><br><span></span><br><sp=
an>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/dona=
te.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation $12.96</span><br><sp=
an>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/ar=
chive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas@icloud.com</span><br><span></span>=
<br></div></div></div></body></html>=
--Apple-Mail-9B4F19B7-F668-48FB-9E57-7499DFB124FD--
--===============6729879763369289987==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
--===============6729879763369289987==--
|