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Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal

To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2014 11:05:40 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W135FC647F1F1FC30A0F5B99ADA0@phx.gbl>, <5.1.0.14.2.20140828165751.006dc958@mail.avvanta.com> FILETIME=[B336B2C0:01CFC39A]
Ebay axle has been ordered, so we'll see what happens there.
The speedi seal is a great backup plan, and the correct size is available for
this application.
Thanks!

> Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 17:11:58 -0700
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> From: racertod@racertodd.com
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cleaning up machined surface for oil seal
>
> PJ wrote:
>
> >My question is, if I purchase the axle in the ebay listing and it's not as
> >perfect as hoped (the seller said the items is already boxed up) once I
look
> >at it, how could I go about "touching up" the machined surface - basically
> >where the rusty part meets the shiny part in the ebay pics.
> >short of buying a lathe (hah!) and machining it down a hair, can I chuck
this
> >shaft into a drill press or something and polish it somehow to get a nice,
> >even and leak free seal?
>
>          I've dealt with leaky seals on my A2 Golfs.  I ended up buying new
> flanges.
>
>          I believe a light touchup with some emery cloth would smooth up
> the surface.  You could chuck it in a drill press to ensure you get a even
cut.
>          Emery cloth comes in different grits, like sandpaper.  A machinist
> would be able to tell you what grit to use.  I'd guess start with 400-600
> grit and polish it out with 1000 grit.
>
>          The problem is the seals tend to dig two closely spaced grooves in
> the flange over the miles.  When you put a new seal on, if it doesn't end
> up sitting exactly in the same place as the old one - you get a leak.  The
> groove isn't something that'd show up in a photo, you have to place
> eyeballs on it to really see it.
>
>          Another option is a product called a Speedi-Sleeve.  It's a thin
> (.010") sleeve that goes on the flange where the seal rides and gives a
> nice new surface for the seal to ride on.
>          I used one after I rebuilt my Golf engine to stop a leaking rear
> main seal.  Easier than pulling the engine to re-machine the crank!  The
> sleeves come in a variety of sizes and can be installed without any special
> tools or machine tools, etc.  Accurate measurements need to be taken to get
> the correct sleeve.  I consulted with my local machinists to get the right
one.
>
>          Link at:
>
<http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-
seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html>
>
>
> Todd
> Seattle,WA
> '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
> '01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       480,000 miles
> '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new
> home :(
> http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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